Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
BUS
Most RN3 buses visit Puerto San Julián's
bus terminal
(San Martín 1552)
at insane hours.
Before settling for a bus that will drop you off in the port at 4am, try
Don Otto
(
452072)
, which delivers southbound travelers to San Julián at civilized evening hours.
Via Tac
( 454049)
goes to Puerto Madryn (AR$440, 12 hours).
Andesmar
(
454403)
goes to Comodoro Rivadavia (AR$220, six hours).
Taqsa/Marga
( 454667)
goes to Bariloche and Río Gallegos (AR$220, 4½ hours) at 4am, where travelers can
make connections south.
There are slightly more expensive door-to-door service options, all operating Monday
to Saturday in the early morning hours.
Cerro San Lorenzo
(
452403; Berutti 970)
serves Gobernador Gregores at 8am (four hours).
Bus schedules may change, so always confirm departures ahead of time.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Parque Nacional Monte León
Inaugurated in 2004, this fine coastal national park protects over 600 sq km of striking
headlands and archetypal Patagonian steppe, and 40km of dramatic coastline with bays,
beaches and tidal flats. Once a hunting ground for nomads, and later frequented by the
Tehuelche, this former
estancia
is home to abundant Magellanic penguins, sea lions,
guanacos and pumas. Bring binoculars: the wildlife-watching is prime.
Hiking along the coastline, with its unusual geographic features, is best when low tide
exposes stretches of sandy and rocky beach. In October 2006 the park's signature land-
scape attraction,
La Olla
(a huge cavelike structure eroded by the ocean), collapsed from
repeated tidal action. Accessible at low tide,
Isla Monte León
is a high offshore sea stack
heavily mined for guano between 1933 and 1960. Now it has been recolonized by cor-
morants, Dominican gulls, skuas and other seabirds. Use caution and know the tide tables
before setting out: the tidal range is great, exposed rocks are slippery and the water re-
turns quickly.
Nature trails split off from the main road, leading to the coast. The
penguin trail
crosses the steppe, leading to an overlook of the rookery. It's forbidden to leave the trail,
but seeing these 75,000 couples shouldn't be difficult. The round-trip takes 1½ hours.
Cars can reach the prominent cliff
Cabeza de León
(Lion's Head), where a 20-minute
trail leads to the park's sea lion colony.
Campers must stay in the designated camping area. The other lodging option is the
charming
Hostería Monte León
(
in Buenos Aires 011-4621-4780;
www.monteleon-patago-
