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nia.com ; s/d incl half-board US$390/234; Nov-Apr) , a refurbished century-old casco (ranch
house) of an 1895 estancia . The four-bedroom house retains the spartan style of the
Patagonian farmhouse, and features iron-rod beds, basic tasteful furnishings and an open
kitchen with iron wood stove.
For boat excursions or fly-fishing for steelhead, consult with the park office
( www.pnmonteleon.com.ar ) . The park entrance is 30km south of Comandante Luis
Piedrabuena or 205km north of Río Gallegos, directly off RN3. Watch for it carefully
since signage is poor.
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Río Gallegos
02966 / POP 95,800
Hardly a tourist destination, this coal shipping, oil-refining and wool-raising hub is a
busy port with a few merits for travelers. Since the reign of the Kirchners, the capital city
of their home province has been spruced up and spit polished. Outside of town, visitors
can find some of the continent's best fly-fishing, traditional estancias and amazingly low
tides (retreating 14m). Traveler services are good here but most zip through en route to
El Calafate, Puerto Natales or Ushuaia.
Gallegos' economy revolves around nearby oilfields, with coal deposits shipped to
ocean-going vessels at Punta Loyola. Home to a large military base, the city played an
active role during the Falklands War (Guerra de las Malvinas). The main street, formerly
Roca, was renamed Kirchner in honor of the former president.
 
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