BASQUE COUNTRY - France 2014 - page 788

Bar Zeruko offers fun for molecular gastronomy fans in a bright, modern setting.
The selections are seasonal, but look for hoguera , a piece of cod served over a smoking
mini-hearth with a side of “liquid” salad. Award-winning chef Joxean Calvo continually
surprises his patrons (€5 pintxos , Tue-Sat 11:00-16:00 & 19:00-24:00, Sun 19:00-24:00,
closed Mon, Calle Pescadería 10, tel. [phone], www.barzeruko.com ) .
Bar Tamboril is a traditional spot right on the main square favored for its seafood,
mushrooms (txampistamboril), andanchovytempuraalongwithitsgoodprices.Theirlist
of hot pintxos (grab the little English menu on the bar) makes you want to break the one-
tapa-per-stop rule (Calle Pescadería 2, tel. [phone]).
Bar Astelena ,acrossthesquarefromTamboril,servesadelicious blendoftradition-
al and modern plates, all thoughtfully presented. Try any of the specials, particularly the
solomillo a lo pobre (small sirloin fillet with mini-fries and a fried egg). Other standouts
include rabodebuey (oxtail)andcapellini-wrapped prawns.There'snoEnglishmenu,but
the staff is happy to help translate (€3-4 pintxos , Calle de Iñigo 1, tel. [phone]).
Do the Txikiteo: A Tapas Cheat Sheet
Txikiteo (chih-kee-TAY-oh) is the Basque word for hopping from bar to bar, enjoy-
ing small sandwiches and tiny snacks ( pintxos, PEEN-chohs) and glasses of wine.
Local competition drives small bars to lay out the most appealing array of pintxos.
The selection is amazing, but the key to eating well here is going for the pintxos
calientes —the hot tapas advertised on blackboards and cooked to order. Tapas are
best, freshest, and accompanied by the most vibrant crowd from 12:00 to 14:00 and
from 20:00 to 22:30. Watch what's being served—the locals know each bar's spe-
cialty. No matter how much you like a place, just order one dish; you want to be
mobile.