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Bar Goiz-Argi (“Morning Light”), every local's top recommendation, serves its tiny
dishes with pride and attitude. Advertising pintxos calientes, they cook each treat for you,
allowing youa montage ofpetite gourmet snacks. Trytheir tartaleta de txangurro (spider-
crab spread on bread), spicy morcilla (blood sausage made with rice), or their signature
brocheta de gambas (shrimp kebab). A good selection of open wine bottles are clearly
priced and displayed on the shelf (great prices, no chairs, congregate at bar, open daily,
Calle Fermín Calbetón 4, tel. 943-425-204).
Bar Borda-Berri (loosely, “Mountain Hut”), a couple doors down, features a more
low-key ambience and top-quality €3 pintxos. There are only a few items at the bar; check
out the chalkboard menu for today's options, order, and they'll cook it fresh. The specialty
here is melt-in-your-mouth beef cheeks (carrillera de tenera) in a red-wine sauce, risotto
with wild mushrooms, and foie gras (grilled goose liver) with apple jelly, which is even
better paired with a glass of their best red wine (closed Mon, Calle Fermín Calbetón 12,
tel. 943-430-342).
Bar Txepetxa is the place for anchovies. A plastic circle displaying a variety of an-
txoas tapas makes choosing your anchovy treat easy. These fish are fresh—not cured and
salted like those most Americans hate (€2.50/ pintxo , Tue lunch only, closed Sun-Mon,
Calle Pescadería 5, tel. 943-422-227).
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