Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
small, can squeeze in an extra (fold-out) bed.
R$450
Lemon Spirit Hostel
Rua Cupertino Durão 56, Leblon
T
21 2294 1853,
W
lemonspirit.com; map pp.76-77.
It's di
cult to believe that there's a hostel in the heart of
Leblon, just one block from the beach and in one of the
oldest buildings in this exclusive
bairro
. All ro
oms a
re a/c,
there's a guest kitchen and a nice patio. Dorms
R$80
Margarida's Pousada
Rua Barão da Torre 600,
Ipanema
T
21 2239 1840,
W
margaridaspousada.com;
map pp.76-77.
Don't expect any frills, but do expect to
feel right at home in this small, friendly B&B, where the
rooms have a TV, fridge and comp
act bat
hroom. Book well
ahead, however, as it fills up fast.
R$260
Rio Hostel Ipanema
Rua Barão da Torre 177, Casa 14,
Ipanema
T
21 2287 2928,
W
riohostelipanema.com;
M
Ipanema/General Osório; map pp.76-77.
A welcoming and relaxed spot three blocks from the beach,
in the same gated alley in which the
Hostel Harmonia
is
located. Internet access and laundry facilities are offered.
Rates
are slig
htly mo
re expensive at weekends. Dorms
R$60
; doubles
R$200
San Marco Hotel
Rua Visconde de Pirajá 524, Ipanema
T
21 2540 5032,
W
sanmarcohotel.net; map pp.76-77.
A good deal for its location, on the main shopping street
just a few minutes from the beach. There are three grades
of room, differing only in size -
the econo
my rooms are
pokey but still very neat and tidy.
R$254.10
★
1
South American Hotel Copacabana
Rua Francisco
Sá 90, Arpoador
T
21 2227 9161,
W
southamericanhotel
.com.br;
M
Ipanema/General Osório; map pp.76-77.
A
few blocks' walk to Copacabana and Ipanema beaches, this
excellent-value hotel offers bright, larger than average
rooms, IKEA-style modern furni
shings,
a good buffet
breakfast and a small rooftop pool.
R$575
EATING AND DRINKING
Rio is well served by
restaurants
offering a wide variety of cuisines.
Cariocas
generally dine late, and restaurants don't
start to fill up until after 9pm. Last orders are usually taken around midnight, but there are places where you can get a meal
at 2am. Eating out in Rio can get pretty
expensive
, but there's no shortage of low-priced places to grab a lunchtime meal,
or just a snack and a drink. There are numerous hamburger joints around town, but bear in mind that the beef used may
well come from the Amazon, where immense ranches are displacing Indians, peasants and trees at a criminal rate; you'll
get better and cheaper food at any
galeto
or
lanchonete
, of which there are plenty, though many are closed at night. In most
regions of Brazil, beer comes to your table in a bottle, but in Rio draught beer (
chopp
, pronounced “shopee”) predominates.
Bar Luiz
Rua Carioca 39, Centro
T
21 2262 6900;
M
Carioca; map pp.62-63.
Rio's oldest
cervejaria
, serving
German food such as kassler smoked sausage (R$43.50)
with ice-cold
chopp
, was called Bar Adolfo until World War
II. It's long been a popular meeting place for journalists and
intellectuals, and although it's a little faded these days, it's
still a bustling, enjoyable spot.
Mon 11am-8pm, Tues-Fri
11am-10pm, Sat 11am-6pm.
Bar Ocidental
Rua Miguel Couto 124, Centro
T
21 2253 4042;
M
Uruguiana; map pp.62-63.
On a
small pedestrianized street that runs alongside Rio Branco
all the way up from Sete de Septembro, this is not a posh
gaff, nor located in a posh neighbourhood, but you can sit
at a table outside and enjoy an early evening
chopp
(R$5)
and a plate of fresh sardines (R$1.90 per fish).
Daily
7am-10pm.
★
CENTRO, CINELÂNDIA AND LAPA
The restaurants in the city centre cater largely for people
working in the area, and at lunchtime the service is rushed.
There are lots of cheap eating places around Praça
Tiradentes, while after work, o
ce workers flock to the
Arco de Teles area, the pedestrian zone centred on Travessa
do Comércio and Rua Ouvidor, for early evening drinks and
petiscos
in the many unassuming bars. Later on, the action
shifts to Lapa, one of the most important nightlife spots in
Rio (see p.70).
Albamar
Praça Marechal Âncora 186, Centro
T
21
2240 8428,
W
www.albamar.com.br;
M
Uruguiana;
map pp.62-63.
Founded in 1933 and housed in the
remaining tower of the old municipal market, this cool,
green, octagonal building provides a superb view of
Guanabara Bay. Waiters in white uniforms serve the likes
of grilled snapper with spinach and mash (R$65) or prawns
in champagne sauce with green apple risotto (R$89).
Daily noon-5pm.
Brasserie Rosário
Rua do Rosário 34, Centro
T
21 2518 3033;
M
Uruguiana; map pp.62-63.
Light
dishes such as quiches and omelettes dominate the menu,
but you can also get a steak (R$55) or the fish of the day
(R$38). The bakery is especially good, serving delicious
cakes and wonderful bread and sandwiches.
Mon-Fri
8am-9pm, Sat 8am-6pm.
★
TOP 5 SEAFOOD RESTAURANTS
Rio-Minho
see p.98
Sobrenatural
see p.98
Caranguejo
see p.99
Marius
see p.99
Shirley
see p.99
Confeitaria Colombo
Rua Gonçalves Dias 32,
Centro
T
21 9967 0081,
W
confeitariacolombo.com.br;
M
Uruguiana or
M
Carioca; map pp.62-63.
Founded in
1894, this splendidly decorated Art Nouveau café patisserie
