Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
1
- a true relic of Rio's
belle époque
- is a wonderful place to
take tea and cakes, although you may have to queue.
There's also a rather plain-looking branch in the Forte de
Copacabana.
Mon-Sat 9am-10pm.
Cosmopolita
Travessa do Mosqueira 4, Lapa
T
21 2224
7820;
M
Cinelândia; map pp.62-63.
An excellent
Portuguese restaurant established in 1926, with a loyal,
rather bohemian, clientele. Fish dishes, and especially
those based on saltfish (all of which are R$99), are the firm
favourites.
Mon-Sat 11am-3am.
★
Amazon, Bahia and Minas Gerais. The dining room has a
designer-rustic look, or you can eat on the terrace and
enjoy wonderful views of the
bairro
.
Mon & Wed-Sat
noon-midnight, Sun 10am-10pm.
Sobrenatural
Rua Almirante Alexandrino 432; map
pp.62-63.
A fish restaurant whose highlights are the
moquecas
(R$61 for one, or R$78 for two) and the catch of
the day. Deliberately rustic-looking, it's an inviting place for
a leisurely meal.
Daily 11am-11.30pm.
Rio-Minho
Rua do Ouvidor 10, Centro
T
21 2509
2338;
M
Uruguiana; map pp.62-63.
The
Rio-Minho
has
been going strong since 1884, serving tasty Brazilian food,
if a bit on the pricey side. The kitchen concentrates on
seafood and the fish of the day (R$103) is always a treat,
although they also do a superb
bobó
of langostinhas
(Dublin bay prawns, which are not really prawns but
pygmy lobsters; R$138).
Mon-Fri 11am-4pm.
GLÓRIA, CATETE AND FLAMENGO
Restaurants,
galetos
and
lanchonetes
are concentrated
around the Largo do Machado, with small restaurants
serving Brazilian, German, Italian, Japanese or Peruvian
food along Rua Barão do Flamengo.
Adega Portugália
Largo do Machado 66a, Catete
T
21 2558 2821;
M
Largo do Machado; map p.75.
Don't miss out on the delicious house speciality at this
popular bar/restaurant: casserole of tender roast goat
(R$38.90), washed down with copious quantities of cold
chopp
.
Daily 8am-2am.
Armazem do Chopp
Rua Marquês de Abrantes 66,
Flamengo
W
armazemdochopp.com.br;
M
Flamengo;
map p.75.
Beer hall serving decent-quality food in large
quantities. The terrace overlooks the street, and the
bolinhas de bacalhau
(saltfish croquette balls; R$23 for five)
are an excellent accompaniment to an ice-cold glass of
chopp
. On Fridays in particular it tends to stay open late.
Daily 11am-2am (or later).
Lamas
Rua Marquês de Abrantes, Flamengo 18
T
21 2556 0799;
M
Flamengo; map p.75.
This ever-
popular restaurant has been serving well-prepared
Brazilian food since 1874 (the R$86 Oswaldo Aranha steak
- pan-fried with lots of garlic - is a staple). Always busy,
with a vibrant atmosphere and clientele of artist and
journalist types.
Daily 11am-2.30am.
Paris
Casa de Arte e Cultura Julieta de Serpa, Praia
do Flamengo 340, Flamengo;
M
Flamengo; map p.75.
Housed in the prettiest building in Flamengo, a mansion
built in 1920, this extremely elegant, formal French
restaurant offers top-notch dining (filet mignon R$85,
fish of the day R$75) amid wonderful fin-de-siècle decor.
There's also a bistrot serving light meals, and a lavishly
decorated tearoom, both of which are super-posh.
Tues-
Sat noon-3pm & 7pm-midnight, Sun noon-4pm.
Porcão Rio's
Av Infante Dom Henrique, Aterro do
Flamengo, Flamengo
T
21 3389 8989,
W
porcao.com
.br;
M
Flamengo; map pp.76-77.
A vast
churrascaria
(part of a small chain - there's another branch in Ipanema),
offering an abundance of top-quality red meat served
rodizio
-style, along with chicken, fish and a varied choice
from the salad buffet - all for R$112 per person, with great
views of Guanabara Bay and Sugar Loaf Mountain.
Mon-Sat noon-12.30am, Sun noon-11pm.
SANTA TERESA
Adega do Pimenta
Rua Almirante Alexandrino 296
T
21 2224 7554; map pp.62-63.
Most people go to this
moderately priced German spot for the sausages (R$32.50),
but the duck (R$48.50) is also excellent. All dishes are
served with an accompaniment of your choice such as
sauerkraut or red cabbage, and there's German beer to
wash it all down.
Mon-Fri noon-10pm, Sat noon-8pm,
Sun noon-6pm.
★
Aprazível
Rua Aprazível 62
T
21 2508 9174,
W
aprazivel.com.br; map pp.62-63.
Excellent, though
expensive, French-influenced Minas Gerais dishes, plus an
attractive terrace with wonderful views across Rio. The
carnival-style octopus (with potatoes, olives, courgettes
and aubergine; R$78) is a wondrous creation, and the goat
(R$74) is roasted to perfection. Advance booking advised.
Tues-Sat noon-11pm, Sun noon-6pm.
Bar do Arnaudo
Rua Almirante Alexandrino 316
T
21 2210 0817; map pp.62-63.
Just up from the
Adega do Pimenta
, this is an excellent mid-priced place to
sample traditional food from Brazil's Northeast, such as
carne do sol
(sun-dried meat, served with sweet manioc;
R$41.50) and
caldinho de feijão de corda
(bean soup with
pork scratchings; R$6).
Mon, Sat & Sun noon-6pm,
Tues-Fri noon-10pm.
Bar do Mineiro
Rua Paschoal Carlos Magno 99
T
21
2221 9227; map pp.62-63.
Inexpensive and authentic
country-style food in an old bar that could be in any small
town in Minas Gerais. Try the
carne seca abóbora
(dried
meat in manioc purée; R$62), and there are also good beers
and an excellent range of
cachaça
.
Tues-Sun 11am-1pm.
★
Espírito Santa
Rua Almirante Alexandrino 264
T
21 2507 4840,
W
espiritosanta.com.br; map
pp.62-63.
Offers multi-regional Brazilian cuisine, the
focus being on adaptations of flavoursome dishes from the
