Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
passing by, you might like to stop by the
bakery and tearoom
, but Walls also has several
good
accommodation
options.
Staneydale Temple
hree miles east of Walls lies the finest Neolithic structure in the Westside, dubbed the
Staneydale Temple
by the archeologist who excavated it because it resembled a temple
on Malta. Whatever its true function, it was twice as large as the surrounding
oval-shaped houses (now in ruins) and was certainly of great importance, perhaps as
some kind of community centre. To reach it, follow the black-and-white poles across
the moorland for half a mile from the road.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
THE WESTSIDE
By bus
There's an infrequent bus service between Lerwick
and Skeld (Mon-Sat 2 daily; 1hr), and between Lerwick
and Walls (Mon-Sat 4 daily; 45min), with a feeder service
from Sandness (Mon-Sat 2-3 daily; 45min).
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Baker's Rest
T
01595 809308,
W
wallsbakery.co.uk.
Places to get a cup of tea or coffee, filled bannocks and
sandwiches, are few and far between in the Westside, so
this simple little tearoom above the bakery in Walls is
useful.
Mon-Sat 9am-5pm.
Ì
Burrastow House
T
01595 809307,
W
burrastow
house.co.uk.
Beautifully situated about 3 miles southwest of
Walls, parts of the house date back to 1759 and ha
ve rea
l
character; others are more modern. The cooking is superb.
£110
Skeoverick
T
01595 809349,
E
skeoverick@btinter
net.com.
There are bargain rates at this lovely modern
crofthouse B&B a mi
le o
r so north of Walls. Residents'
lounge and free wi-fi.
£50
Voe House
Walls
T
01595 694688,
W
camping-bods
.com.
This five-bedroom camping böd is Shetland's largest,
with its own peat fire. Note that
Voe H
ouse
is confusingly,
not in Voe but in Walls. April-Oct.
£10
/person
16
Papa Stour
Formed of volcanic lava and ash, the rocky island of
Papa Stour
has been eroded
into some of the most impressive coastal scenery in Shetland. In good weather, it
makes for a perfect day-trip, but in foul weather or a sea mist it can appear pretty
bleak. Its name, meaning “big island of the priests”, derives from its early Celtic
Christian connections. he land is very fertile, and once supported three
hundred inhabitants, but in the early 1970s the population crisis was such that
the island had to advertise for incomers. Today, there is no accommodation apart
from wild camping, and internal feuding has brought the population down to
single figures.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
PAPA STOUR
By plane
Directflight (
T
01595 840246,
W
directflight
.co.uk) flies from Tingwall twice every Tuesday, so a day-
trip is feasible (£60 return).
By ferry
The ferry runs from West Burrafirth, 5 miles north
of Walls, to Papa Stour (Mon & Sun 1 daily, Wed, Fri & Sat 2
daily; 45min;
T
01955 745804) - book in advance, and
reconfirm the day before departure.
WALKING ON PAPA STOUR
Ordnance Survey Explorer map 467
To reach the best of Papa Stour's coastal scenery, head for the west of the island. From
Virda
Field
(285ft), the highest point, you can see the treacherous rocks of
Ve Skerries
, where a
lighthouse was erected as recently as 1979. The coastline from here southeast to Hamna Voe
has some of the island's best stacks, blowholes and natural arches. The most spectacular is
Kirstan's Hole
, a gloup or partly roofed cleft, extending far inland, where shags nest on
precipitous ledges. Look out, too, for red-throated divers which regularly breed on inland lochs
such as Gorda Water.
