Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
whenever a major rarity is spotted; for more casual birders, however, there's also plenty
of summer resident birdlife to enjoy. he high-pitched screeching that fills the sky
above the airstrip comes from hundreds of arctic terns, and arctic skuas can also be seen
here. hose in search of pu
ns should head for the cliffs around Furse, and to find
gannets, aim for the spectacular Stacks of Scroo.
George Waterston Museum
Mon 2-4pm, Wed 10.30am-noon, Fri 2-3.30pm • Free •
T
01595 760244
Fair Isle is, of course, better known for its
knitting
patterns, still produced with great
skill by the local knitwear cooperative. here are samples on display at the
George
Waterson Museum
, next to the Methodist Chapel. Particularly memorable are stories of
shipwrecks; in 1868 the islanders undertook a heroic rescue of all 465 German
emigrants aboard the
Lessing
. More famously,
El Gran Grifon
, part of the retreating
Spanish Armada, was lost here in 1588 and three hundred Spanish seamen were
washed up on the island. Food was in such short supply that fifty died of starvation
before help could be summoned from Shetland.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
FAIR ISLE
By plane
Directflight (
T
01595 840246,
W
directflight.
co.uk) flies from Tingwall to Fair Isle (Mon-Sat 1-3 daily)
and from Sumburgh (Sat only).
By ferry
The passenger ferry connects Fair Isle with
either Lerwick (alternate Thurs; 4-5hr) or Grutness in
Sumburgh (Tues, alternate Thurs & Sat; 3hr); since the
boat only takes a limited number of passengers, it's
advisable to book in advance (
T
01595 760363). The
crossing can be rough, so if you're susceptible to
seasickness it's worth considering flying.
16
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
If you're thinking of staying over, book accommodation in advance as demand is high in the summer and note that camping
is not permitted. Although casual visitors can get something to eat at the observatory, all accommodation is booked on a
full-board basis. There is a shop/post o
ce, Stackhoull Stores, in the south of the island (closed Tues & Sat afternoon, and all
day Thurs & Sun).
Fair Isle Bird Observatory Lodge
T
01595 760258,
W
www.fairislebirdobs.co.uk.
April-Oct. Full-board
accommodation
is available
at the modern observatory in
en-suite doubles/twins and singles; as the island's social
hub, the observatory offers self-service tea and co
ffee, a
tuck shop with honesty box; meals by arrangement.
£120
South
W
southlightfairisle.co.uk.
B&B at the southernmost tip
of the island, not literally
in th
e lighthouse, but in the
adjacent keepers' cottages.
£100
Upper Leogh
T
01595 760248,
W
kathycoull.com.
You'll be well looked after on this whitewashed crofthouse
B&B by spinning and
weav
ing expert, Kathy Coull, who also
runs textile courses.
£100
Light
House
T
01595
760355,
The Westside
he western Mainland of Shetland - known as the
Westside
- stretches west from
Weisdale and Voe to Sandness. Although there are some important archeological
remains and wildlife here, the area's greatest appeal lies in its outstanding
coastal scenery
and walks. Cut by several deep voes, the coastline is very varied; aside from dramatic
cliffs, there are intimate coves and some fine beaches, as well as the stunning island of
Papa Stour
.
Walls and around
Once an important fishing port,
WALLS
(pronounced
waas
), appealingly set round its
harbour, is now a quiet village which comes alive once a year in the middle of August
for the Walls Agricultural Show, the biggest farming bash on the island. If you're just
