Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Foula
At “the edge of the world”,
Foula
is the most isolated inhabited island in the British
Isles, separated from the nearest point on Shetland by about fourteen miles of often
turbulent ocean. Seen from the Mainland, its distinctive mountainous outline is
unforgettable. Its western
cliffs
, the second highest in Britain after those of St Kilda,
rise to 1220ft at
The Kame
; a clear day offers a panorama stretching from Unst to
Fair Isle. On a bad day, the exposure is complete and the cliffs generate turbulent
blasts of wind known as “flans”, which rip through the hills with tremendous force.
Arriving on Foula, you can't help but be amazed by the sheer size of the island's
immense, bare mountains, whose summits are often hidden in cloud, known as “Foula's
hat”. he gentler eastern slopes provide good crofting land, and plentiful peat, around
which the island's population of around forty is scattered. he only road, running along
the island's eastern side, is used by Foula's remarkable fleet of clapped-out vehicles.
Foula's name is derived from the Old Norse for “bird island”, and it's home to a
quarter of a million
birds
. Arctic terns wheel overhead at the airstrip, red-throated
divers can usually be seen on the island's smaller lochs, while fulmars, guillemots,
razorbills, pu
ns and gannets cling to the rock ledges. However, it's the island's colony
of
great skuas
or “bonxies” that you can't fail to notice, with an estimated 3000 pairs
on Foula, making it the largest colony in the world. During the nesting season
(May-Aug), they attack anyone who comes near; the best advice is to hold a stick
above your head or stick to the road and the coast.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
16
FOULA
By plane
Directflight (
T
01595 840246,
W
directflight.
co.uk) flies from Tingwall (Mon 1 daily, Tues, Wed & Fri 2
daily, 15min); tickets cost around £70 return.
By ferry
Be sure to book and reconfirm your journey by ferry
(Tues, Thurs & Sat; 2hr;
T
01595 5840208,
W
bkmarine.org),
which departs from Walls (Tues, Sat & alternate Thurs; 2hr) or
Scalloway (alternate Thurs; 3hr 30min). The ferry arrives at
Ham, in the middle of Foula's east coast.
INFORMATION AND TOURS
Tourist information
Foula has its own resident part-
time ranger, who usually greets new arrivals and offers
local advice (mid-April-Oct). It's also possible to arrange
for guided walks with the ranger (Wed & Fri;
T
01595
753236,
self-guided walk leaflets from the website. There's no shop
on the island, so bring your own supplies.
Boat trips
Day-trips are not possible on the regular ferry,
but Cycharters (
T
01595 696598,
W
cycharters.co.uk) do
boat trips on Wednesdays from Scalloway.
W
foulaheritage.org.uk), or you can download
ACCOMMODATION
Leraback
T
01595 753226,
W
originart.eu/leraback/
leraback.html.
The only accommodation on Foula is at this
B&B near Ham. It's a great place to stay; ful
l bo
ard only and
they'll collect you from the airstrip or pier.
£80
North Mainland
he
North Mainland
, stretching over thirty miles from the central belt around
Lerwick, is wilder than much of Shetland, with relentlessly bleak moorland and some
rugged and dramatic coastal scenery. It's all but split in two by the isthmus of
Mavis
Grind
: to the south lies
Sullom Voe
, Shetland's oil terminal and
Brae
, the area's largest
town; to the north is the remote region of
Northmavine
, boasting some of Shetland's
most scenic cliffs.
Voe
If you're travelling north, you'll pass by
VOE
, at the main crossroads of the North
Mainland. If you stay on the main road, it's easy to miss the picturesque old village, a tight
