THE GUIDE - The Rough Guide to Bali and Lombok - page 169

Nusa Ceningan
At the point where the channel between Nusa Lembongan and NUSA CENINGAN is nar-
rowest a bridge links the islands. You can cycle or ride a motorbike across for a look at
this totally rural island, just 4km long by 1km wide, but it's quite a challenge: the road is
very rough in places, there are no signs and gradients are steep. Forested and hilly, the island
depends on seaweed farming and lacks swimmable beaches, though there is a famous surf
break , Ceningan Point. You get great views of the break, plus Lembongan and Bali's south-
east coast, from the top of the precipitous Puncak Bogor hill (unsigned).
However, tourist development is increasing as Ceningan acquires a reputation for escapism
among surfers and adrenaline-junkies who cliffjump off a ledge at the southwestern tip - it
can't be stressed enough, follow local guidance and do not attempt this alone.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING: NUSA CENINGAN
Tourist facilities on Ceningan are few: hotel restaurants aside, eating is limited to a couple
of basic warung about 500m southwest of the bridge. As well as the hotels listed, overnight
homestays can be organized by the village ecotourism network, JED ( 0361 737447,
jed.or.id ) .
Jenny's Place 0812 3627 7650, [e-mail] . Occupying a magnificent pos-
ition right in front of Ceningan Point surf break, this supremely relaxed stay has four simple
bungalows with awesome views of Lembongan and Bali from their upstairs bedroo ms. In at-
mosphere, it feels like a home from home, though most meals have to be ordered in. Rp500,000
Le Pirate 0361 741 6833, lepirate-beachclub.com . A French-owned mini-resort that
suggests the Caribbean in the bright colours of its cute (though tiny) thatched “Beach Box”
huts; options for a/ c and bun k beds. The obligatory pool and restaurant make good use of the
seashore location. Rp450,000
Nusa Penida
Dominated by a dry central limestone plateau either side of beaches in the north and by
towering sea cliffs in the south, the handsome island of NUSA PENIDA feels quite differ-
ent from mainland Bali. It was once used as a penal colony, a sort of Siberia for transgress-
ive Balinese, and is famous as the home of the legendary demon I Macaling; its temple,
Pura Dalem Penataran Ped , is an important pilgrimage site for Hindus from all over Bali.
Islanders have their own dialect and many live off seaweed farming, fishing and growing
tough crops like corn; it's too dry for rice.
Despite offering first-class diving , superb scenery and a chance to see the endangered Bali
starling , Nusa Penida has few tourist facilities and gets few foreign visitors; local rumour
suggests island elders are reluctant to approve tourism infrastructure, although plans for a
luxury resort were hinted at in 2013. While some may feel unnerved by this lack of facilities,