Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
more adventurous visitors will find it a reward in itself; a chance to visit a destination almost
free of tourist glitz - the welcome in villages is warm.
On a day-trip from nearby Nusa Lembongan you can get a taste of Penida on a circuit that
takes in Pura Dalem Penataran Ped,
Pura Goa Giri
, a
view
of the south-coast cliffs and
Crystal Bay
, as well as the island's main towns,
Toyapakeh
and
Sampalan
. Ideally, at least
two days' exploration provides a better impression of an island that feels far larger than its
20km by 16km because of the steep inclines and dizzy back roads. Take to the latter and
you'll get lost, of course. But maybe that's half the point.
Toyapakeh
Boats from Nusa Lembongan dock at
TOYAPAKEH
, spread behind a crescent of white-
sand beach. There's nothing particular to see, just a small daily market and a tiny mosque,
but there are a couple of basic warung and usually a hawker or two to meet you. Still, it's a
mellow spot - or is unless one of the day-tripper boats from Sanur has moored to a pontoon
just offshore.
Pura Dalem Penataran Ped
Ped village, main road • Daily dawn-dusk • Free; own sash and sarong required to visit
Every day
Pura Dalem Penataran Ped
attracts worshippers from across Bali, bearing copi-
ous offerings. The temple complex is always dressed to receive them, its dazzlingly smooth
white limestone walls and fantastic carvings draped in ceremonial cloths of black-and-white
poleng
and gold-brocade
songket
. The temple is regarded as
angker
, a place of evil spirits; it
is the home of the dreaded
I Macaling
, also known as
Ratu Gede
and
Jero Gde
, who brings
disease, floods and ill-fortune to the mainland and requires regular appeasement. There are
actually four temples within the compound, one of which is dedicated to I Macaling; another
has a dramatic sculpture of the half-fish, half-elephant deity of the sea, Gajah Mina.
