THE GUIDE - The Rough Guide to Bali and Lombok - page 135

Pura Luhur Uluwatu is now sanctified as one of Bali's sacred directional temples , or kay-
angan jagat - state temples that have influence over all the people of Bali, not just the local
villagers or ancestors. It is the guardian of the southwest, dedicated to the spirits of the sea
and its festivals are open to all; during the holy week-long period of Galungan, Balinese from
all over the island come here to pay their respects.
Climbing the frangipani-lined stairway to the temple's outer courtyard , you're likely to
meet Uluwatu's resident troupe of macaques, brazen thieves of many a pair of earrings and
sunglasses, even cameras. Images of the elephant god Ganesh flank the temple entrance.
Only worshippers are allowed inside but the temple extends to the cliff edge and the famous
three-thatched meru is visible from along the cliff. A tiny courtyard in the temple contains a
locked shrine housing an ancient statue which is thought by some to be Nirartha, the influen-
tial sixteenth-century priest from Java, who possibly achieved his own spiritual liberation (or
moksa ) on this spot.
You'll get some of the best views of Pura Luhur Uluwatu's dramatic position from the tracks
that wind along the cliff edge to the left and right of the temple for a few hundred metres, af-
fording fine, silhouetted vistas of the three-tiered meru perched atop the massive, sheer wall
of limestone.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING: PADANG PADANG AND SULUBAN
PADANG PADANG
Guna Mandala Inn Jl Labuhan Sait, beside the bridge 0361 895 7454; map . Fairly dated
and some rooms can be musty (ask for another if so), but this purpose-built block has budget
accommodation with fans a nd cold-w ater bathrooms at surfer-friendly prices and is as close
as it gets to the beach steps. Rp330,000
Pink Coco Jl Labuhan Sait, about 400m before bridge 0361 895 7371, pinkcoco-
bali.com ; map . “La casa del surfero” reads the sign, which may explain the hint of Mexico
about Padang Padang's finest stay; think rust-red colours in international-standard roo ms
with chunky moulded shelves and polished concrete floors. Also has a spa and two pools. $82
Yeye's Warung 500m beyond bridge 0361 742 4761; map . Good food - fish or calamari
steamed in a banana leaf, tasty Indian curries (mains Rp40,000-50,000) - on a healthy menu,
plus fresh-pressed juices and milkshakes and good vibes in the nicest hangout in the village.
Service can be slow when busy - all dishes are cooked to order - but this is a fine spot to
spend an evening. Daily noon-midnight.