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huts (all with a/c) spread behind a saltwater pool (and jacuzzi) on the cliff . Sp lash out for a
sea view (prices from $180). Facilities include a spa and small resort shop. $116
Pondok Indah Gung 0813 376 77080; map . It may be less appealing than Leggies , as it
lacks a pool, but this welcoming place is a good fallback offering ochre-painted rooms in a
two-sto rey buildi ng wrapped around a garden courtyard, all with fans and cold-water bath-
rooms. Rp350,000
The Temple Lodge 08573 901 1572, thetemplelodge.com ; map . Romance, ec-
lecticism and a stunning location combine in this hideaway, where reclaimed pieces and In-
donesian antiques lend bohemian flair to the six bungalows - some boasting sea views (from
$190), and one stunner that clings halfway down the cliff. There's also an infinity pool, yoga
sessions and a spa, and Mediterranean cuisine in a superb restaurant serving fresh heal thy
dishes like fish, ravioli or prawn risotto (Rp50,000). Divine bread, too. Smallest suite $85
Padang Padang and Suluban (Uluwatu)
Padang Padang is a gorgeous cove notched in the Bukit's high cliffs that's safe for swim-
ming. Nothwithstanding its use as a location in the film Eat, Pray, Love (Julia Roberts meets
her beau here), its fame - and the reason for all the restaurants and guesthouses - is the
eponymous surf break , one of the most exciting waves in Indonesia, not least because of a
kink in the final section. Access to the waves and beautiful sands is via steps by the bridge.
Arguably the most impressive break hereabouts, however, is at Pantai Suluban 2km, bey-
ond Padang Padang. So legendary are the Uluwatu surf breaks (named after the nearby
temple) that wrap around the cliffs on the Bukit's tip that most road signs are named Uluwatu
not Suluban. There are five left-handers, all consistent and surfable from two to fifteen feet,
though crowds can be heavy and locals' priority enforced - this is no place for a novice. Even
if you don't access the breaks via the steep steps beside the Blue Point Bay Villas and Spa ,
you can head to the warung that cling to the cliff for an astonishing grandstand view of tur-
quoise water and crashing white surf.
Pura Luhur Uluwatu
2km east of Uluwatu surf breaks • Temple Daily 8am-7pm • Rp20,000, including sarong and sash rental Kecak
and Fire Dance Daily 6-7pm • Rp100,000 • No public transport, but this is a fixture on tourist agency tours in
south Bali (around Rp250,000, including sunset dance)
One of Bali's holiest temples and most iconic sights, Pura Luhur Uluwatu is superbly sited
on the edge of a sheer promontory that juts out 70m above the foaming surf at the island's tip.
Views over the serrated coastline are stunning and this is a favourite spot at sunset, especially
with coach-tour groups. Indeed, the setting is all: the temple itself is relatively small and for
the most part unadorned.
Accounts of Uluwatu's early history are vague, but the Javanese Hindu priest Empu Kutur-
an almost certainly constructed a meru (multitiered thatched shrine) here in the tenth century.
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