Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Roman Necropolis:
Look down and imagine a 2,000-year-old tomb-lined road. In Ro-
man cities, tombs (outside the walls) typically lined the roads leading into town. Emperor
Augustusspentalotoftimeinmodern-daySpainconqueringnewland,sotheRomanswere
suretoincorporateHispaniaintotheempire'sinfrastructure.Thisroad,ViaAugusta,ledinto
the Roman port of Barcino (today's highway to France still follows the route laid out by this
Roman thoroughfare). Looking down at these ruins, you can see how Roman Barcino was
about 10 feet lower than today's street level. For more on this city's Roman chapter, follow
my “Barri Gòtic Walk,” later.
• Return to the Ramblas and continue downhill 100 yards or so to the next street. At Carrer
de la Portaferrissa (across from the big church), turn left a few steps and look right to see
the
decorative tile
overthefountain.Thesceneshowstheoriginalcitywallwiththegatethat
once stood here and the action on what is today's Ramblas. Cross the boulevard to the front
of the big church.
Betlem Church:
It's dedicated to Bethlehem, and for centuries locals have flocked
here at Christmastime to see Nativity scenes. The church is 17th-century Baroque: Check
outtheslopingroofline,ball-toppedpinnacles,corkscrewcolumns,andscrollsabovetheen-
trance.TheBaroqueandalsoRenaissance stylesarerelatively unusualinBarcelonabecause
it missed out on several centuries of architectural development. Barcelona enjoyed two hey-
days: during the medieval period (before the Renaissance) and during the turn of the 20th
century (after Baroque). In between those periods, from about 1500 until 1850, the city's
importancedropped—first,NewWorlddiscoveriesshiftedlucrativetradetoportsontheAt-
lantic, and then the Spanish crown kept unruly Catalunya on a short leash.
For a sweet treat, head down the narrow lane behind the church (going uphill parallel to
the Ramblas about 30 yards) to the recommended
Café Granja Viader,
which has special-
izedinbakedanddairydelightssince1870.StepinsidetoseeViaderfamilyphotosandearly
posters advertising Cacaolat—the local chocolate milk Barcelonans love. (For more sugary
• Continue down the boulevard, through the stretch called the...
Rambla of Flowers:
This colorful block, lined with flower stands, is the Rambla of
Flowers. On the left, at #100,
Gimeno
sells cigars. Step inside and appreciate the dying art
of cigar boxes. Go ahead, do something forbidden in America but perfectly legal here...buy
a Cuban (little singles for €1). Tobacco shops sell stamps and phone cards, plus bongs and
marijuana gear—the Spanish approach to pot is very casual. While people can't legally sell
marijuana,they'reallowedtogrowitforpersonaluseandconsumeit.(You'llsmellitssweet
smoke all over the city.)
• Continue to the Metro stop marked by the red M. At #91 (on the right) is the arcaded en-
trance to Barcelona's great covered market, La Boqueria. If this main entry is choked with
