Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
visitors (as it often is), you can skirt around the sides by entering one block in either direc-
tion (look for the round arches that mark passages into the market colonnade).
La Boqueria:
This lively market hall is an explosion of chicken legs, bags of live
snails, stiff fish, delicious oranges, odd odors, and sleeping dogs. The best day for a visit
is Saturday, when the market is thriving. It's closed on Sundays, and locals avoid it on
Mondays, when it's open but (they believe) vendors are selling items that aren't necessarily
fresh—especially seafood, since fishermen stay home on Sundays.
Since as far back as 1200, Barcelonans have bought their animal parts here. The market
was originally located by the walled city's entrance, as many medieval markets were (since
itwasmoreexpensivetotradewithinthewalls).Itlaterexpandedintothecolonnadedcourt-
yard of a now-gone monastery before being topped with a colorful arcade in 1850.
While tourists are drawn like moths to a flame to the area around the main entry (below
thecolorfulstained-glasssign),localsknowthatthestallsupfrontpaythehighestrent—and
therefore have to inflate their prices and cater to out-of-towners. For example, the juices
along the main drag just inside the entrance are tempting, but if you venture to the right a
couple of alleys, the clientele gets more local and the prices drop dramatically.
Stopbytherecommended
PinotxoBar
—it'sjustinsidethemarket,underthesign—and
snap a photo of Juan. Animated Juan and his family are always busy feeding shoppers. Get-
ting Juan to crack a huge smile and a thumbs-up for your camera makes a great shot...and
he loves it. The stools nearby are a fine perch for enjoying both your coffee and the people-
watching.
The market and lanes nearby are busy with tempting little eateries (several are listed on
here
).Dropbyacaféforan
espressoconleche
orbreakfast
tortillaespañola
(potatoomelet).
Once you get past the initial gauntlet, do some exploring. The small square on the north side
of the market hosts a farmers market in the mornings. Wander around—as local architect
Antoni Gaudí used to—and gain inspiration.
• Head back out to the street and continue down the Ramblas.
It's clear that, as you walk the Ramblas, you're skirting along the west boundary of the
oldBarriGòticneighborhood.Asyouwalk,glance totheleftthroughamodernarchwayfor
aglimpseofthemedievalchurchtowerof
SantaMariadelPi,
apopularvenueforconcerts
runs parallel to the Ramblas.
At the corner directly opposite the modern archway, find the highly regarded
Escribà
bakery (look for the
Antigua Casa Figueras
sign arching over the doorway), with its fine
Modernista facade and interior. Notice the beautiful mosaics, stained glass, and woodwork.
In the sidewalk in front of the door is a plaque explaining that the building dates from 1902
(plaques like these identify historic shops all over town).
