Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Getting to the Nussdorf
Heurigen:
Taketram#DfromtheRingstrasse(stopsincludethe
Opera, Hofburg/Kunsthistorisches Museum, and City Hall) to its endpoint (the stop labeled
Nussdorf
isn't the end—stay on for one more stop to Beethovengang). Exit the tram, cross
the tracks, go uphill 40 yards, and look for the
Heurigen
on your left.
Not far from Nussdorf, hiding just above the unappealing main road, is Pfarrplatz, which
feels like a charming village square watched over by a church. Beethoven lived—and began
work on his Ninth Symphony—here in 1817; he'd previously written his Sixth Symphony
(Pastorale)
while staying in this then-rural district. He hoped the local spa would cure his
worsening deafness. (Confusingly, the name “Heiligenstadt” is used for two different loca-
tions: this little neighborhood, and the big train and U-Bahn station near the river.)
Mayer am Pfarrplatz
(a.k.a. Beethovenhaus), right next to the church, is famous,
touristy, and feels more polished—almost trendy—compared to the other
Heurigen
I list.
This place has a charming inner courtyard under cozy vines with an accordion player, along
with a sprawling backyard with a big children's play zone (Mon-Fri 16:00-24:00, Sat-Sun
12:00-24:00, Pfarrplatz 2, tel. 01/370-1287,
www.pfarrplatz.at
)
.
Weingut and Heuriger Werner Welser
is a block uphill (go up Probusgasse). It's
big (serving large tour groups) and traditional, with dirndled waitresses and lederhosened
waiters. It feels a bit crank-'em-out, but it's still lots of fun, with music nightly from 19:00
(open daily 15:30-24:00, Probusgasse 12, tel. 01/318-9797,
www.werner-welser.at
)
.
Getting to the Heiligenstadt
Heurigen:
Take the U-4 line to its last station, Heiligen-
stadt, then transfer to bus #38A. Get off at Fernsprechamt/Heiligenstadt, walk uphill, and
take the first right onto Nestelbachgasse, which leads to Pfarrplatz and the Beethovenhaus.
Vienna—the birthplace of what we call classical music—still thrives as Europe's music cap-
ital. On any given evening, you'll have your choice of opera, Strauss waltzes, Mozart cham-
ber concerts, and lighthearted musicals. The Vienna Boys' Choir lives up to its worldwide
reputation.
Besidesmusic,youcanspendaneveningenjoyingart,watchingaclassicfilm,orsipping
Viennese wine in a village wine garden. Save some energy for Vienna after dark.
Asfarbackasthe12thcentury,Viennawasamecca formusicians—both sacredandsecular
(troubadours).TheHabsburgemperorsofthe17thand18thcenturieswerenotonlygenerous
