AUSTRIA - Best of Europe 2014 - page 86

Fuhrgassl Huber , which brags it's the biggest Heuriger in Vienna, can accommodate
1,000 people inside and just as many outside. You can lose yourself in its sprawling back-
yard, with vineyards streaking up the hill from terraced tables. Musicians stroll most nights
(Tue-Sat after 19:00; open daily 14:00-24:00, Neustift am Walde 68, tel. [phone],
www.fuhrgassl-huber.at , family Huber).
Das Schreiberhaus Heurigen-Restaurant is another popular, family-owned place with
creaky old-time dining rooms papered with celebrity photos, with 600 spaces inside and an-
other600outside,musicnightlyafter19:00,andabackyardreachingdeepintoitsvineyards
(open daily 11:00-24:00, Rathstrasse 54, tel. [phone], www.dasschreiberhaus.at ) .
Weinhof Zimmermann , while a bit of a walk from the bus stop, is my favorite. It's a
sprawling farmhouse where the green tables on patios echo the terraced fields all around.
While dining, you'll feel like you're actually right in the vineyard. The idyllic setting comes
withrabbitsinpettingcages,greatfood,nocityviewsbutfinehillsidevistas,andwonderful
peace (Mon-Sat 15:00-24:00, closed Sun, tel. [phone], www.weinhof-zimmermann.at ) .
Ride bus #35A to the Agnesgasse stop (at the corner of Rathstrasse and Agnesgasse, just
before the Neustift am Walde stop), then hike uphill on Agnesgasse to the farm at Mitter-
wurzergasse 20.
Getting to the Neustift am Walde Heurigen: Simply ride bus #35A to the stop in
Neustift am Walde (catch the bus from the Nussdorfer Strasse stop on the U-6).
Nussdorf
An untouristy district, characteristic and popular with the Viennese, Nussdorf has plenty of
Heuriger ambience. This area feels very real with a working-class vibe, streets lined with
local shops, and characteristic Heurigen that feel a little bit rougher around the edges.
Schübel-Auer Heuriger is my favorite here—with a big and user-friendly buffet (many
dishes are labeled and the patient staff speaks English). Its rustic ambience can be enjoyed
indoors or out (Tue-Sat 16:00-24:00, closed Sun-Mon, Kahlenberger Strasse 22, tel. 01/
370-2222, www.schuebel-auer.at ).
Heuriger Kierlinger , next door, is also good, with a particularly rollicking, woody
room around its buffet (daily 15:30-24:00, Kahlenberger Strasse 20, tel. [phone],
www.kierlinger.at ).
Bamkraxler (“Tree-Climber”) is the only Biergarten amid all these vineyards. It's a
fun-loving, youthful place with fine keg beer and a regular menu—traditional, ribs, veggie,
kids' menu—rather than the Heuriger cafeteria line (€7-13 meals, kids' playground, Tue-
Sat 16:00-24:00, Sun 11:00-24:00, closed Mon, Kahlenberger Strasse 17, tel. [phone],
www.bamkraxler.at ). To get here, walk all the way through the others, pop out on Kahlen-
berger Strasse, and walk 20 yards uphill.