AUSTRIA - Best of Europe 2014 - page 85

CaféBräunerhof, betweentheHofburgandtheGraben,offersclassicambiencewithno
tourists and live music on weekends (light classics, no cover, Sat-Sun 15:00-18:00), along
with a practical menu with daily lunch specials (daily 8:00-20:00, Stallburgasse 2, U-1 or
U-3: Stephansplatz, tel. [phone]).
Other Classics in the Old Center: All of these places are open long hours daily: Café
Pruckel (at Dr.-Karl-Lueger-Platz, across from Stadtpark at Stubenring 24); Café Tiroler-
hof (2 blocks from the Opera, behind the TI on Tegetthoffstrasse, at Führichgasse 8); and
Café Landtmann (directly across from the City Hall onthe Ringstrasse at Dr.-Karl-Lueger-
Ring 4). The Landtmann is unique, as it's the only grand café built along the Ring with all
the other grand buildings. Café Sacher (see here ) and Demel (see here ) are famous for their
cakes, but they also serve good coffee drinks.
Wein in Wien: Vienna's Wine Gardens
The Heuriger (HOY-rih-gur) is a uniquely Viennese institution. When the Habsburgs let Vi-
enna's vintners sell their own new wine (called Sturm ) tax-free, several hundred families
opened Heurigen —wine-garden restaurants clustered around the edge of town. A tradition
was born. Today, they do their best to maintain the old-village atmosphere, serving their
homemade wine (the most recent vintage, until November 11, when a new vintage year be-
gins)with small meals andstrolling musicians. Most Heurigen aredecorated with enormous
antique presses from their vineyards. (For a near- Heuriger experience in downtown Vienna,
drop by Gigerl Stadtheuriger—see here . )
Manyplacescloseonedayaweekandinwinter,socallfirst.Severalemploygypsy-type
strolling musicians (accordionists and violinists who add ambience for tips). Most Heurigen
have play zones for kids. And, depending on the weather, it's either all outside or all inside.
I've listed three good Heuriger neighborhoods, all on the outskirts of Vienna. To reach
the neighborhoods from downtown Vienna, it's best to use public transportation (cheap, 30
minutes, runs late in the evening, directions given per listing below), or you can take a
15-minute taxi ride from the Ring (about €15-20).
While there are some “destination” Heurigen , it can be disappointing to seek out a par-
ticular place, because the ambience can change depending on that evening's clientele (loc-
als vs. tour groups). Each neighborhood I've described is a square or hub with two or three
recommended spots and many other wine gardens worth considering. Wander around, then
choose the Heuriger with the best atmosphere.
Neustift am Walde
This district is farthest from the city but is still easy to reach by public transit. It feels a little
less touristy than other places.