AUSTRIA - Best of Europe 2014 - page 88

supporters of music, but fine musicians and composers themselves. (Maria Theresa played a
mean double bass.) Composers such as Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven, Schubert, Brahms, and
Mahler gravitated to this music-friendly environment. They taught each other, jammed to-
gether, and spent a lot of time in Habsburg palaces. Beethoven was a famous figure, walk-
ing—lost in musical thought—through the Vienna Woods. In the city's 19th-century belle
époque, “Waltz King” Johann Strauss and his brothers kept Vienna's 300 ballrooms spin-
ning.
This musical tradition continues into modern times, leaving many prestigious Viennese
institutions for today's tourists to enjoy: the Opera, the Boys' Choir, and the great Baroque
hallsandchurches,allbusywithclassicalandwaltzconcerts.Asyoupokeintochurchesand
palaces, you may hear groups practicing. You're welcome to sit and listen.
For music lovers, Vienna is also an opportunity to make pilgrimages to the homes (now
mostly small museums) of favorite composers. If you're a fan of Schubert, Brahms, Haydn,
Beethoven, or Mozart, there's a sight for you. But I find these homes inconveniently located
and generally underwhelming. The centrally located Haus der Musik (see here ) is my favor-
ite setting for celebrating the great musicians and composers who called Vienna home.
Vienna remains the music capital of Europe, with 10,000 seats in various venues around
town mostly booked with classical performances. The best-known entertainment venues are
the Staatsoper (a.k.a., “the Opera”), the Volksoper (for musicals and operettas), the Theater
an der Wien (opera and other performances), the Wiener Musikverein (home of the Vienna
Philharmonic Orchestra), and the Wiener Konzerthaus (various events). The events held in
these places are listed in the monthly Wien-Programm (available at TI).
In Vienna, it's music con brio from October through June, reaching a symphonic climax
during the Vienna Festival each May and June. Sadly, in summer (generally July and
August), the Boys' Choir, Opera, and many other serious music companies are—like
you—on vacation. But Vienna hums year-round with live classical music; touristy, crowd-
pleasing shows are always available.
Buying Tickets: Most tickets run from €40 to €55 (plus a stiff booking fee when bought
in advance or through a box office like the one at the TI). A few venues charge as little as
€25; look around if you're not set on any particular concert. While it's easy to book tickets
online long in advance, spontaneity is also workable, as there are invariably people selling
their extra tickets at face value or less outside the door before concert time. If you call a
concert hall directly, they can advise you on the availability of (cheaper) tickets at the door.
Viennatakescareofitsstarvingartists(andtourists)byofferingcheapstanding-roomtickets
to top-notch music and opera (generally an hour before each performance).