ITALY - Best of Europe 2014 - page 1267

alpesto (hand-rollednoodleswithpesto).Theirclassic antipastodelnostrochef (€36forsix
plates) isplenty fortwopeople. Fromthe breakwater,follow either the stairs orthe ropethat
leads up and around to the restaurant. You'll find a tangle of tables embedded in four levels
ofthelowerpartoftheoldcastle.Fortheultimateseasideperch,callandreserveoneoffour
tables on the terrazza con vista (view terrace). Most of Belforte's seating is outdoors—if the
weather's bad, the interior can get crowded (€15 pastas, €23 secondi, €3 cover, Wed-Mon
12:00-15:00 & 19:00-22:00, closed Tue and Nov-March, tel. [phone], Michela).
Harborside
(See “Vernazza” map, here . )
GamberoRosso (“Red Prawn,” the same name asItaly'stoprestaurant guide) isconsidered
Vernazza's most venerable restaurant. It feels dressy and costs more than the others. Try
Chef Claudio's namesake risotto (€15 pastas, €20 secondi, €3 cover, Tue-Sun 12:00-15:00
& 19:00-22:00, closed Mon and Dec-Feb, Piazza Marconi 7, tel. [phone]).
TrattoriadelCapitano serves spaghetticonfruttidimare (pastaentangledwithvarious
types of seafood) and grigliata mista (a mix of seasonal Mediterranean fish) among their
offerings (€10 pastas, €16 secondi, €2 cover, Wed-Mon 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-22:00, closed
TueexceptinAug,closedNov-Dec,tel.[phone],whilePaoloandEduardospeakEng-
lish, grandpa Giacomo doesn't need to).
Trattoria Gianni is an old standby for locals and tourists who appreciate the best prices
on the harbor. You'll enjoy well-prepared seafood and receive steady, reliable, and friendly
service from Emanuele and Alessandro. Ask about “off-menu specials.” While the outdoor
seating is basic, the indoor setting is classy (€15 pastas, €15 secondi, €3 cover, check their
menùcucinatipicaVernazza, Thu-Tue12:00-15:00&19:00-22:00,closedWedexceptJuly-
Aug, tel. [phone]).
Ristorante Pizzeria Vulnetia is simpler, serving regional specialties such as prizewin-
ning tegameallaVernazza —anchovies,tomatoes,andpotatoesbakedintheoven(€8pizzas,
€12 pastas, €16 secondi, €2 cover, Tue-Sun 12:00-15:30 & 18:30-22:00, closed Thu, Piazza
Marconi 29, tel. [phone], Giuliano).
Inland, on or near the Main Street
(See “Vernazza” map, here . )
Several of Vernazza's inland eateries manage to compete without the harbor ambience, but
with slightly cheaper prices.
Trattoria da Sandro, on the main drag, mixes Genovese and Ligurian cuisine with
friendly service. It can be a peaceful alternative to the harborside scene, plus they dish