Travel Reference
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Ananasso Bar feels Old World, with youthful energy and a great location with little
tables right on the harbor. They offer toasted panini, pastries, and designer cappuccino.
You can eat a bit cheaper at the bar (you're welcome to picnic on the nearby bench or
seawall rocks with a Mediterranean view) or enjoy the best-situated tables in town (Fri-Wed
8:00-late, closed Thu).
Picnic Breakfast: Drop by one of Vernazza's several little bakeries, focaccia shops, or
grocery stores to assemble a breakfast to eat on the breakwater. Top it off with a coffee in a
nearby bar.
Lunch and Dinner
(See “Vernazza” map, here . )
If you enjoy Italian cuisine and seafood, Vernazza's restaurants are worth the splurge. All
take pride in their cooking. Wander around at about 20:00 and compare the ambience, but
don't wait too late to eat—many kitchens close at 22:00. (Immigrants, who are doing more
and more of the hard work of cooking and cleaning, need to wrap things up in time to catch
the last train back to La Spezia, where many of them live.) To get an outdoor table on sum-
mer weekends, reserve ahead. Expect to spend €10 for pastas, €12-16 for secondi, and €2-3
for a cover charge. Harborside restaurants and bars are easygoing. You're welcome to grab
a cup of coffee or glass of wine and disappear somewhere on the breakwater, returning your
glass when you're done. If you dine in Vernazza but are staying in another town, be sure to
check train schedules before sitting down to eat, as trains run less frequently in the even-
ing.Anchoviesarethespecialty,andanyrestaurantlovestoshowoffwithdazzling antipasti
misti plates of seafood and anchovies.
Above the Harbor, by the Castle
(See “Vernazza” map, here . )
Ristorante al Castello is run by gracious and English-speaking Monica, her husband
Massimo, kind Mario, and the rest of her family. Hike high above town to just below the
castle for commanding views. Their lasagne al pesto , “spaghetti on the rocks” (noodles
with shellfish), and scampi crêpes are time-honored family specialties. For simple fare and
a special evening, reserve one of the dozen romantic cliffside sea-view tables for two. Some
of these tables snake around the castle, where you'll feel like you're eating all alone with
the Mediterranean. Monica offers a free sciacchetrà or limoncello with biscotti if you have
this topic (€10 pastas, €12 secondi , Thu-Tue 12:00-15:00 for lunch, 19:00-22:00 for dinner,
closed Wed and Nov-April, tel. 0187-812-296).
Ristorante Belforte 's experimental, beautifully presented, creative cuisine includes a
hearty zuppaMichela (€23foraboatloadofseafood),fishy spaghettiBruno (€13),and trofie
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