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up award-winning stuffed mussels (€13 pastas, €15 secondi, Wed-Mon 12:00-15:00 &
18:30-22:00, closed Tue, Via Roma 62, tel. 0187-812-223, Gabriella and Alessandro).
Antica Osteria il Baretto is another solid bet for homey, reasonably priced traditional
cuisine,runbySimoneandJenny.Asit'sofftheharborandalittlelessglitzythantheothers,
it's favored by locals who prefer less noisy English while they eat great homemade fish ra-
violi. Sitting deep in their interior can be a peaceful escape (€12 pasta, €14 secondi, Tue-Sat
12:00-15:00 & 19:00-22:00, closed Mon, indoor and outdoor seating, Via Roma 31).
RistoranteIncadasedaPiva isararebitofoldVernazza.For25years,charismaticPiva
has been known for his tegame alla Vernazza, his riso Piva (seafood risotto), and his love
of music. The town troubadour, he often serenades his guests when the cooking's done. Piva
is now joined by his son, Raphael, who speaks English (€10 pastas, €14 secondi, Fri-Wed
12:00-15:00 & 19:00-22:30, closed Thu, tucked away 20 yards off the main drag, up a lane
behind the pharmacy).
Other Eating Options
(See “Vernazza” map, here . )
Il Pirata delle Cinque Terre, popular for breakfast, is also a favorite for lunch and dinner
(€9 pastas, great salads, Sicilian specialties), and its homemade desserts and drinks. The
Cannoli twins entertain while they serve, as diners enjoy delicious meals while laughing out
loud in this simple café/pastry shop. The menu offers a break from the predictable Ligurian
fare, and the bread is literally hot out of the oven (at the top of town; for complete descrip-
tion, see listing under “Breakfast,” earlier).
Bar Baia Saracena (“Saracen Bay”) serves decent pizza and pastas out on the breakwa-
ter. Eat here for the economy and the view (€5-7 salads, €9 pizza, tel. 0187-812-113, Luca).
Pizzerias, Sandwiches, and Groceries: Vernazza's main-street eateries were among the
last businesses to reopen after the flood. Two pizzerias stay busy, and while they mostly
do takeout, each will let you sit and eat for the same cheap price. One has tables on the
street, and the other, called Ercole, hides a tiny terrace and a few tables out back. Forno
Bakery hasgoodfocacciaandveggietarts,andseveralbarssellsandwichesandpizzabythe
slice. Pino's grocery store also makes inexpensive sandwiches to order (generally Mon-Sat
8:00-13:00 & 17:00-19:30, closed Sun). Tiny jars of pesto spread give elegance to picnics.
Gelato: The town's three gelaterias are good. What looks like Gelateria Amore Mio
(near the grotto, mid-town) is actually Gelateria Stalin—founded in 1968 by a pastry chef
withthatunfortunatename.HisnieceSonia,who“speaksicecream,”andnephewFrancesco
now run the place, and are generous with free tastes. They also have good coffee (daily
8:00-24:00, closes at 19:00 off-season, 24 flavors, sit there or take it to go).
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