Graphics Reference
In-Depth Information
ground-up ABS filament dissolved in ace-
tone.
Applied in the open air, acetone melts the
surface of ABS plastic (and many similar styr-
ene plastics), creates a goopy sludge, and
then—after some time—evaporates, leav-
ing behind just the reformed ABS plastic. By
sealing up this process in an airtight con-
tainer that the acetone cannot easily escape,
you can prepare a thick, even acetone/ABS
mix similar to acrylic gel medium.
There are a variety of methods for preparing
ABS slurry. I like
ProtoParadigm's recipe
; one
part ABS to two parts acetone, mixed in fin-
gernail polish containers or similar. Use a
cheap coffee/spice grinder to shred ABS fil-
ament and scraps as needed. Smaller pieces
dissolve faster and make it easier to gauge
the mix ratio.
Observe proper handling pre-
cautions when working with
acetone and ABS slurry. Wear
gloves and goggles and do not
work without proper ventila-
tion or in the presence of open
flames. Besides being highly
flammable, ABS slurry sticks to
anything and burns with a
foul-smelling smoke that is
widely regarded as toxic. Be
very careful or you'll create a
tiny batch of “napalm” that will
need to be treated like a chem-
ical fire.
Figure 13-17.
Protect your tip with a brass tube
Tape the factory head of the rivet in
place when you need both hands
to soften and flatten the shop head.
Gluing and Filling: Creating
ABS Slurry for Filler and
Glue
While super glue (cyanoacrylate) and plastic
model glues do an excellent job of bonding
ABS parts, many 3D-printed model builders
have switched to using “ABS slurry” for both
glue and filler material, because this sub-
stance can weld parts together more per-
manently and can be exactly color-matched
to the printed parts. ABS slurry is simply
Apply ABS slurry with an inexpensive
natural-hair paintbrush (synthetic brushes
will dissolve in acetone!) to either fill small
cracks or glue two pieces together. Leave it
to air-dry until the acetone completely evap-
