Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Tourist Shuttle Bus
Perama
(Map pp176-7 ;
They're interesting to history and archaeology
buffs, but not that spectacular to look at - with
the exception of Gunung Kawi. Perhaps the
best approach is to plan a whole day walking
or cycling around the area, stopping at the
places that interest you, but not treating any
one as a destination in itself.
If you're travelling by public transport,
start early and take a bemo to the Bedulu
intersection southeast of Ubud, and another
due north to Tirta Empul, about 15km from
Ubud. From the temple of Tirta Empul, fol-
low the path beside the river down to Gunung
Kawi, then return to the main road and walk
south for about 8km to Pejeng, or flag down
a bemo going towards Gianyar.
BEDULU
Bedulu was once the capital of a great king-
dom. The legendary Dalem Bedaulu (see the
Legend of Dalem Bedaulu, p203) ruled the
Pejeng dynasty from here, and was the last
Balinese king to withstand the onslaught of
the powerful Majapahit from Java. He was
defeated by Gajah Mada in 1343. The capital
shifted several times after this, to Gelgel and
then later to Semarapura (Klungkung). For a
walking tour around this area see p184.
UBUD & AROUND
0
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Air Terjun Tegenungan...........................................
1
2
B4
A4
9am-
9pm)
is the major tourist shuttle operator, but its
terminal is inconveniently located in Padang-
tegal; to get to your final destination in Ubud
will cost another 5000Rp.
973316; Jl Hanoman;
%
h
3 km
Bali Bird Park & Rimba Reptil Park..........................
A
0
2 miles
Goa Garba..............................................................
Gunung Kawi..........................................................
Pura Gaduh............................................................
Pura Kedarman.......................................................
Pura Krobokan........................................................
Pura Mengening......................................................
Pura Puseh.............................................................
Tirta Empul...........................................................
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
B2
B1
B4
B3
B2
To Gunung
To Blue Yogi Café
B
Batur Crater
(4km); Elephant
(20km)
Safari Park (8km);
To Penelokan
10
Taro (8km)
(14km)
8
1
4
Ceking
B1
Payangan
12
Destination
Fare
Tampaksiring
A4
B1
11
Yehtengah
Candidasa 40,000Rp
Kuta 30,000Rp
Lovina 70,000Rp
Padangbai 40,000Rp
Sanur 20,000Rp
GET TING AROUND
Bemo
Bemo don't directly link Ubud with nearby
villages; you'll have to catch one going to
Denpasar, Gianyar, Pujung or Kintamani and
get off where you need to. Bemo to Gianyar
travel along eastern Jl Raya, down Jl Peliatan
and east to Bedulu. To Pujung, bemo head
east along Jl Raya and then north through
Andong and past the turn-off to Petulu.
To Payangan, they travel west along Jl Raya
Ubud, go up past the many places on Jl Raya
Campuan and Jl Raya Sanggingan and turn
north at the junction after Sanggingan. Larger
brown bemo to Batubulan terminal go east
along Jl Raya and down Jl Hanoman.
The fare for a ride within the Ubud area
shouldn't be more than 4000Rp.
14
SLEEPING
Keliki
Tegallalang
Alam Sari...............................................................
11
12
13
A1
Alila Ubud............................................................
Taman Harum Cottages.......................................
A1
A3
EATING
2
Sebali
Jungjungan
Cafe Kampung......................................................
14
B1
See Ubud Area map (pp176-7)
Payogan
SHOPPING
Petulu
Kedewatan
7
Pasar Seni (Craft Market).....................................
15
A4
Sayan
3
TRANSPORT
Batubulan Bus/Bemo Terminal..............................
16
A5
Ubud
Penestanan
Peliatan
Dukuh
To the left of the cave entrance, in a small
pavilion, is a statue of Hariti, surrounded by
children. In Buddhist lore, Hariti was an evil
woman who devoured children, but under the
influence of Buddhism she reformed com-
pletely to become a protector of children and
a symbol of fertility.
From Goa Gajah you can clamber down
through the rice paddies to Sungai Petanu,
where there are crumbling
rock carvings
of
stupas
(domes for housing Buddhist relics)
on a cliff face, and a small
cave
.
Try to get here before 10am, when the big
tourist buses start to arrive.
Nyuhkuning
Bedulu
To Semarapura
Teges
(Klungkung)
Pengosekan
(12km)
3
Kutri
6
Mas
Gianyar
13
Bona
Silakarang
Kemenuh
Sakah
Belega
Blahbatuh
5
Sights
GOA GAJAH
Two kilometres southeast of Ubud on the
road to Bedulu, a large car park and a few of
souvenir shops indicate that you've reached
a big tourist attraction -
Goa Gajah
(Elephant Cave;
Map pp176-7; adult/child 4100/2100Rp, car parking 1000Rp,
motorbike parking 300Rp;
Negari
Tegenungan
1
Batuan
4
Puaya
15
Singapadu
Sukawati
2
Bicycle
See bike rental information under Activi-
ties, p182 .
Celuk
Saba
Tegaltamu
8am-6pm)
. There were
never any elephants on Bali; the cave probably
takes its name from the nearby Sungai Petanu,
which at one time was known as Elephant
River, or perhaps because the face over the
cave entrance might resemble an elephant.
The origins of the cave are uncertain - one
tale relates that it was created by the fingernail
of the legendary giant Kebo Iwa. It probably
dates to the 11th century, and was certainly
in existence during the Majapahit takeover
of Bali. The cave was rediscovered by Dutch
archaeologists in 1923, but the fountains and
pool were not found until 1954.
The cave is carved into a rock face and
YEH PULU
This 25m-long
carved cliff face
(Map pp176-7 ; adult/
child 4100/2100Rp)
is believed to be a hermitage
dating from the late 14th century. Apart from
the figure of elephant-headed Ganesha, the
son of Shiva, there are no obvious religious
scenes here. The energetic frenzy includes
various scenes of everyday life, although the
position and movement of the figures suggests
that it could be read from left to right as a
story. One theory is that they are events from
the life of Krishna, the Hindu god.
One of the first recognisable images is of a
man carrying a shoulder pole with two jugs,
possibly full of
tuak
(palm wine). He is follow-
h
9
Petanu
Guwang
Batubulan
Car & Motorcycle
With numerous nearby attractions, many of
which are difficult to reach by bemo, renting
a vehicle is sensible. Ask at your accommo-
dation or hire a car and driver. See p356 for
details.
16
Selat
Pabean
To Ubung
(3km)
Ketewel
Badung
Tohpati
5
To Kuta
Gumicik
(13km)
Denpasar
To Sanur
AROUND UBUD
The region east and north of Ubud has many
of the most ancient monuments and relics on
Bali. Some of them predate the Majapahit era
(1km)
Inside the T-shaped cave you can see frag-
mentary remains of the
lingam,
the phallic
symbol of the Hindu god Shiva, and its female
counterpart the
yoni,
plus a statue of Shiva's
