Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Sights
PURA KEBO EDAN
Also called the Crazy Buffalo Temple (Map pp176-7 ) ,
this is not an imposing structure, but it is
famous for its 3m-high statue, known as the
Giant of Pejeng , thought to be approximately
700 years old. Details are sketchy, but it may
represent Bima, a hero of the Mahabharata,
dancing on a dead body, as in a myth related
to the Hindu Shiva cult. There is some con-
jecture about the giant's giant genitalia - it has
what appear to be pins on the side. Some claim
this was to give the woman more pleasure - an
early version of what is often sold by vending
machines in men's toilets.
GOA GAJAH
the paddy fields, but you might need to pay
a local to guide you. By car or bicycle, look
for the signs to 'Relief Yeh Pulu' or 'Villa Yeh
Pulu', east of Goa Gajah.
Even if your interest in carved Hindu art
is minor, this site is really quite lovely and
rarely will you have much company. From
the entrance, it's a pleasant 300m walk to
Yeh Pulu.
vary from 1000 to 2000 years, and it is not cer-
tain whether it was made locally or imported -
the intricate geometric decorations are said
to resemble patterns from as far apart as Irian
Jaya and Vietnam. Even in its inaccessible
position, you can make out these patterns and
the distinctive heart-shaped face designs.
Balinese legend relates that the drum came
to earth as a fallen moon, landing in a tree and
shining so brightly that it prevented a band
of thieves from going about their unlawful
purpose. One of the thieves decided to put
the light out by urinating on it, but the moon
exploded and fell to earth as a drum, with a
crack across its base as a result of the fall.
Although the big noise here is all about the
drum, be sure to notice the statuary in the
temple courtyard that dates from the 10th to
the 12th century.
TAMPAKSIRING
Tampaksiring is a small town about 18km
northeast of Ubud with a large and impor-
tant temple and the most impressive ancient
monument in Bali.
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40 m
0
40 yards
(ELEPHANT CAVE)
A
B
Bale (Pavilion)............................
1
A3
Bathing Pools.............................
2
A3
1
Buddha Statues..........................
3
B4
Buddhist Antiquities...................
4
B4
Goa Gajah..................................
5
B2
Hariti Statue...............................
6
B2
To Tampaksiring
Meditation Niche.......................
7
A3
(8.5k m )
Pura Taman................................
8
B3
Ticket Office..............................
9
B2
PURA SAMUAN TIGA
The majestic Pura Samuan Tiga ( Temple of the Meet-
ing of the Three; Map pp176-7) is about 200m east of
the Bedulu junction. The name is possibly
a reference to the Hindu trinity, or it may
refer to meetings held here in the early 11th
century. Despite these early associations, all
the temple buildings have been rebuilt since
the 1917 earthquake. The imposing main gate
was designed and built by I Gusti Nyoman
Lempad, one of Bali's renowned artists and a
native of Bedulu.
Jl Bedulu
Shops & Car Park
9
To Ubud
(5km)
2
5
6
PURA PUSERING JAGAT
The large Pura Pusering Jagat (Navel of the World
Temple; Map pp176-7) is said to be the centre
of the old Pejeng kingdom. Dating from 1329,
this temple is visited by young couples who
pray at the stone lingam and yoni . Further
back is a large stone urn, with elaborate but
worn carvings of gods and demons search-
ing for the elixir of life in a depiction of the
Mahabharata tale 'Churning the Sea of Milk'.
The temple is on a small track running west
of the main road.
8
2
1
3
MUSEUM PURBAKALA
This archaeological museum (Map pp176-7 ;
%
8am-3pm Mon-Thu,
8am-12.30pm Fri) has a reasonable collection of
artefacts from all over Bali, and most displays
are in English. The exhibits in several small
buildings include some of Bali's first pot-
tery from near Gilimanuk, and sarcophagi
dating from as early as 300 BC - some origi-
nating from Bangli are carved in the shape of
a turtle, which has important cosmic associa-
tions in Balinese mythology. The museum is
about 500m north of the Bedulu junction, and
easy to reach by bemo or by bicycle.
942354; admission by donation;
h
7
Sights
GUNUNG KAWI
On the southern outskirts of town, a sign
points east off the main road to Gunung Kawi
and its ancient monuments (Map p201 ; adult/child
4100/2100Rp;
PURA PENATARAN SASIH
This was once the state temple (Map pp176-7 ; Jl Raya
Tampaksiring) of the Pejeng kingdom. In the inner
courtyard, high up in a pavilion and difficult
to see, is the huge bronze drum known as the
Fallen Moon of Pejeng . The hourglass-shaped
drum is 186cm-long, the largest single-piece
cast drum in the world. Estimates of its age
4
7am-5pm) . From the end of the
access road, a steep, stone stairway leads
down to the river, at one point making a cut-
ting through an embankment of solid rock.
There, in the bottom of this lush green val-
ley, is one of Bali's oldest and largest ancient
monuments.
Gunung Kawi consists of 10 rock-cut candi
(shrines) - memorials cut out of the rock face
in imitation of actual statues. They stand in
awe-inspiring 7m-high sheltered niches cut
into the sheer cliff face. A solitary candi stands
about a kilometre further down the valley to
the south; this is reached by a trek through the
rice paddies on the western side of the river.
Each candi is believed to be a memorial to a
member of the 11th-century Balinese royalty,
but little is known for certain. Legends relate
that the whole group of memorials was carved
out of the rock face in one hard-working night
by the mighty fingernails of Kebo Iwa.
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4
3
Getting There & Away
About 3km east of Teges, the road from Ubud
reaches a junction where you can turn south
to Gianyar or north to Pejeng, Tampaksiring
and Penelokan. Ubud-Gianyar bemo will
drop you off at this junction, from where you
can walk to the attractions. The road from
Ubud is reasonably flat, so coming by bicycle
is a good option.
PEJENG
Continuing up the road towards Tampaksir-
ing you soon come to Pejeng and its famous
temples. Like Bedulu, this was once an impor-
thoughtful seated figure wears a turban, which
suggests he is a priest.
The hunting scene starts with a horseman
and a man throwing a spear. Another man
seems to be thrusting a weapon into the
mouth of a large beast, while a frog imitates
him by disposing of a snake in the same man-
ner. Above the frog, two figures kneel over a
smoking pot, while to the right, two men carry
off a slain animal on a pole. Then there's the
depiction of the woman holding the horse's
tail - is she begging the rider to stay or being
dragged off as his captive?
THE LEGEND OF DALEM BEDAULU
A legend relates how Dalem Bedaulu pos-
sessed magical powers that allowed him
to have his head chopped off and then re-
placed. Performing this unique party trick
one day, the servant entrusted with lopping
off his head and then replacing it unfortu-
nately dropped it in a river and, to his hor-
ror, watched it float away. Looking around
in panic for a replacement, he grabbed a
pig, cut off its head and popped it upon
the king's shoulders. Thereafter, the king
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