Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Understand
Ponte delle Tette
vestro)
, known since the 15th century as 'Tits Bridge'. Across this bridge was once
Venice's red-light zone, where prostitutes displayed their wares in windows. But the
most ambitious working girls might be found studying: for educated conversation,
cor-
tigiane
(courtesans) might charge 60 times the going rates for basic services. Fees
set by the state were posted in brothels (soap cost extra), Venetian guide books pub-
lished reviews of high-end
cortigiane
, and prostitutes were officially forbidden from
cross-dressing (aka false advertising) or riding in two-oared boats - lucky that gon-
dolas only require one oar.
Drinking
17
Al Prosecco
WINE BAR
The urge to toast sunsets in Venice's loveliest
campo
is only natural - and so is the
wine at Al Prosecco. This forward-thinking bar specialises in
vini naturi
(natural-
process wines) - organic, biodynamic, wild yeast fermented - from the €3.50 un-
filtered 'cloudy'
prosecco
to the silky €5 Veneto Venegazzú that trails across the
tongue and lingers in the imagination. (
041 524 02 22;
www.alprosecco.com
;
Campo San
Giacomo dell'Orio, Santa Croce 1503;
9am-10.30pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm winter;
San Stae)
18
Al Mercà
WINE BAR
Discerning drinkers throng this cupboard-sized bar crammed with
cicheti
and 60
different wines, including top-notch
prosecco
and DOC wines by the glass (€2 to