Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
This former bullfight pen became a brewery in the 19th century to keep Venice's
Austrian occupiers occupied, and beer and heritage beef remain reliable bets here.
Perennial favourites include
bresaola
(air-cured beef) and rocket and buffalo-
mozzarella pizzas, with German beer on tap or Italian artisan bottled brews.
There's seldom a wait for indoor seating, though piazza seating is prime in sum-
mer. (
041 275 05 70;
www.birrarialacorte.it
; Campo San Polo 2168; pizzas €8-13, mains €15;
San Silvestro)
15
Trattoria da Ignazio
$$
VENETIAN, SEAFOOD
Dapper, white-jacketed waiters serve pristine grilled lagoon fish, fresh pasta and
desserts made in-house ('of course') with a proud flourish on tables bedecked with
yellow linens and orchids. On cloudy days, homemade crab pasta with a bright
Lugana white wine make a fine substitute for sunshine. On sunny days and warm
nights, the neighbourhood converges beneath the garden's grape arbour. (
041
523 48 52;
www.trattoriadaignazio.com
;
Calle dei Saoneri 2749, San Polo; meals €25-30;
noon-3pm
& 7-11pm Mon-Sat;
;
San Tomà)
16
Sacro E Profano
$
ITALIAN
Musicians, artists and philosophising regulars make this hideaway under the Ri-
alto exceptionally good for eavesdropping - but once that handmade gnocchi or
spaghetti
alla búsara
(Venetian prawn sauce) arrives, all talk is reduced to satis-
fied murmurs. The place is run by a Venetian ska-band leader, which explains the
trumpets on the wall and the upbeat, arty scene. (
041 523 79 24; Ramo Terzo del
Parangon 502, San Polo; meals €15-25;
11.30am-1pm & 6.30pm-1am Mon-Tue & Thu-Sat,
11.30am-2pm Sun;
Rialto-Mercato)
