Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
€3.50). Arrive by 6.30pm for meatballs and mini-
panini
(sandwiches; €1 to €2)
and easy bar access, or mingle with crowds stretching to the Grand Canal docks -
there's no seating, and it's elbow room only at Venice's friendliest bar counter. (
393 992 47 81; Campo Cesare Battisti 213, San Polo;
9.30am-2.30pm & 6-9pm Mon-Sat;
Rialto)
19
Osteria da Filo
CAFE, BAR
A living room where drinks are served, Hosteria alla Poppa comes complete with
creaky sofas, free wi-fi, abandoned novels and board games for marathon sessions
mastering the Italian version of
Risk
. Service is brusque, but drinks are cheap and
Mediterranean tapas tasty. Wednesday is live-music night starting around 8pm -
usually it's jazz, with the owner on the drums.
(Hosteria alla Poppa;
041 524 65 54; Calle
delle Oche, Santa Croce;
11am-midnight Wed-Sun, from 5pm Mon & Tue;
;
Riva de Biasio)
20
Caffè dei Frari
CAFE, BAR
Take your espresso with a heap of history at this century-old, carved wooden bar,
or recover from the sensory overload of I Frari with a sandwich, a glass of wine
and easy conversation at the dinky indoor cafe tables downstairs or on the Liberty-
style wrought-iron balcony upstairs. (
041 524 18 77; Fondamenta dei Frari 2564, San Polo;
8am-9pm Mon-Sat;
San Tomà)
21
Muro Vino e Cucina
BAR
No velvet rope here, though it's the kind of buzzing, urban-chic place at which
you'd expect to find one. The throng at Muro's sleek aluminum
cicheti
counter are
on to something - no one wants to miss
sopressa
with porcini mushroom cream,
or smoked goose and arugula
crostini
. Prices are friendly too, with wines by the
glass starting at €2 and
cicheti
from €1.50 to €3.50. (
041 241 23 39;
