Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
World War II) that the Croatians used for their improvised defense, and piles of spent mor-
tar shells and other projectiles that Yugoslav forces hurled at the fortress and the city. Look
for the wire-guided Russian rockets. After being launched at their target, the rockets would
burrow into a wall, waiting to be detonated once their operators saw the opportunity for
maximum destruction. The tattered Croatian flag seems soaked in local patriotism. A video
screen shows breathless international news reports from the front line during the bombing.
You'll also learn how a squadron of armed supply ships became besieged Dubrovnik's only
tether to the outside world.
WhilethedevastationofDubrovnikwasdisturbing,thismuseumcoulddoafarbetterjob
of fostering at least an illusion of impartiality. Instead, descriptions rant one-sidedly against
“Serbian and Montenegrin aggression” and the “Serbian imperialist war,” and the exhib-
its self-righteously depict Croats exclusively as victims (which was essentially true here in
Dubrovnik, but ignores Croat atrocities elsewhere). All of this serves only to trivialize and
distract from the human tragedy of this war.
After seeing the exhibit, climb up a few flights of stairs to the
rooftop
for the view.
The giant communications tower overhead flew the Croatian flag during the war, to inspire
the besieged residents below. You might see some charred trees around here—these were
claimed not by the war, but more recently, by forest fires. (Fear of landmines and other ex-
plosives prevented locals from fighting the wildfires as aggressively as they might other-
wise, making these fires more dangerous than ever.)
Eating:
BoastingundoubtedlythebestviewinDubrovnik,
Restaurant/Snack Bar Pan-
orama
has reasonable prices and drop-dead, astonishing views over the rooftops of the Old
Town and to the most beautiful parts of three different countries. While there's glassed-in
seating inside, in good weather I'd exit the building to find the outdoor terrace—the Old
Town floats just under your nose (25-35-kn drinks, 55-75-kn cocktails, 80-90-kn pastas,
100-160-kn main dishes, open same hours as cable car).
Swimming and Sunbathing
If the weather's good and you've had enough of museums, spend a sunny afternoon at the
beach. There are no sandy beaches on the mainland near Dubrovnik, but there are lots of
suitable pebbly options, plus several concrete perches.
Theeasiest andmostatmospheric placetotakeadipisrightoffthe
Old Town.
Fromthe
Old Port and its breakwater, uneven steps clinging to the outside of the wall lead to a series
of great sunbathing and swimming coves (and even a showerhead sticking out of the town
wall). Another delightful rocky beach hangs onto the outside of the Old Town's wall (at the
bar called Cold Drinks “Buža” I; for more on this bar, and how to find it, see
here
).
