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( 24-2583; Junín 336; s S20-40, d S40-50; ) The hallways here are dark and nar-
row, but the rooms are perfectly acceptable and come with decent bathrooms. They some-
times allow couples to squeeze into the single rooms, where you'll be spooning out of ne-
cessity but smiling about the extra céntimos in your pockets. The owners also run three
other guesthouses in the vicinity if you turn up and it's full.
Hotel El Brujo $$$
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( 47-4545; www.elbrujohotel.com ; Independencia 978; s/d incl breakfast S192/256;
) A complete revamp of this hotel means a new name and higher prices, but it's a
clean, pleasant and quiet option very close to several northern bus stations. It's very
business-like, with modern, carpeted rooms and all the requisite amenities (minibar, cable
TV and writing desk). There's 24-hour room service and a great new terrace with city
views. Foreign passport holders get a S81 discount on listed prices.
HOTEL
Eating
The 700 cuadra of Pizarro is where Trujillo's power brokers hang out and families con-
verge, and they're kept well fed by a row of trendy yet reasonably priced cafes and res-
taurants. Some of the best eateries in Trujillo are found a short taxi ride outside the town
center.
PERUVIAN, SEAFOOD
Mar Picante $$
( www.marpicante.com ; Húsares de Junín 412; mains S18-30; 10am-5pm) If
you come to Trujillo without sampling this bamboo-lined seafood palace's ceviche mixto
ordered with a side of something spicy, you haven't lived life on the edge. You'll get raw
shrimp, fish, crab, scallops and onions, marinated as usual in lime juice, piled on top of
yucca and sweet potato with a side of toasted corn (chancha) and corn on the cob, along
with a shot of rocoto -fired juice that will jolt your taste buds into submission when you
pour it on. This is the North Coast's best! Service is swift and friendly as well, no small
feat considering it's always packed. Take a taxi (S3.50) or leg it southwest on Larco from
the center. Húsares de Junín splits off to the southeast 200m south of España.
Casona Deza $
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(Independencia 630; mains S10-25; ) This spacious, atmospheric cafe occupies one of
the city's most fiercely preserved colonial homes: the Casa Ganoza Chopitea mansion (c
CAFE
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