Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Descending into the
caldera
(admission €2.50; 9am-8pm)
is other-worldly. Cows
graze near the craters amid sci-fi-set rocks. A path descends into the largest of the five
craters,
Stefanos
, where you can examine the multicoloured 100°C fumaroles, listen to
their hissing and smell the sulphurous vapours. The surface is soft and hot, making
sturdy footwear essential. Don't stray too far out as the ground is unstable and can col-
lapse. Another unsignposted but more obvious track leads to
Polyvotis
, which is smaller
and wilder looking but doesn't allow access to the caldera itself. The fumaroles are
around the edge here so be very careful.
You can reach the volcano by bus, car or along a 3km-long trail from Nikea. Get there
before 11am and you may have the place to yourself.
Emborios & Nikea Εμπορειός & Νίκαια
Nikea, like some geometrical sugarcube miracle, clings to the rim of the caldera with
wide-screen views of the depression below. Emborio, just a few kilometres away, is
equally pretty with whitewashed streets punctuated by crimson bougainvillea and yawn-
ing cats. It too sits on the caldera's edge.
Ampia Taverna
( 22420 31377; Emborios; mains €6-12; )
, behind the church, has
tasteful burgundy-and-mustard walls and a chillout area to work in. Its menu excels with
souvlakia, octopus, meatballs and stuffed peppers, and wood-fired goat; eat upstairs for
Olympian drama. Just opposite, overlooking the caldera, is the heavily aromatic
Balcony
Restaurant
(Emborios, Nisyros; mains €9;
9am-10pm)
, firing up mouth-watering chops
and steaks.
Nikea has dazzling white houses with vibrant gardens and a lovely mosaic-tiled central
square. The bus terminates on Plateia Nikolaou Hartofyli from where Nikea's main street
links the two squares. At the edge of town is the
Volcanological Museum
(admission €2;
11am-3pm May-Sep)
detailing the history of the volcano and its effects on the island. In
the village's main square, divinely pretty with its pebble mosaic,
Kafenion Forta
(mains
€7.50)
has tables and chairs outside to enjoy the mountain view over a cool drink, toastie,
juice or beer.
The steep path down to the volcano begins from Plateia Nikolaou Hartofyli. It takes
about 40 minutes to walk it one way. Near the beginning you can detour to the signpos-
ted
Moni Agiou Ioanni Theologou
, where there is an annual feast on 25 and 26 Septem-
ber.
