Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Pali Πάλοι
This tiny, wind-buffeted village sits by the sea and has a few sun-beaten buildings fol-
lowing the line of the marina. You can eat at a few sleepy tavernas, rent a scooter and ex-
plore the nearby beach of Lies , Nisyros' most usable beach, about 5.5km around the
coast. You can also walk an extra kilometre from the end of the road along an occasion-
ally precarious coastal track to Pahia Ammos , a broad expanse of gravelly volcanic
sand. Bring your own shade.
In Pali, Mammis' Apartments ( 22420 31824, 22420 31453; www.mammis.com ; d €70;
year-round; ) is set in gardens rioting with flowers, and has imaginatively decor-
ated rooms with kitchenettes and private balconies with sea views; as well as a separate
room with a sofa bed for kids. The Captain's House (mains €8; 8am-midnight) , attract-
ing yachties and wizened fishermen alike, is festooned with yellow nets and so close to
the harbour you can taste the salt. Its menu is packed to the gills with octopus, calamari,
baby shark and cuttlefish.
KOS ΚΩΣ
POP 19,872
Soaked in history and ruins, after a few hours wandering Kos town's fortress and the
Asklepion (Hippocrates' ancient sanatorium), you become almost blasé at sidestepping
millenia-old Corinthian columns gathering weeds at the roadside. Indeed the past and
present converge magically on this island (the second-largest in the Dodecanese) of var-
ied treasures: from vernal valleys and peacock-blue coves, to sylvan hillsides and rocky
stretches - one moment you find yourself in a rustic mountain taverna the next in a busy
cosmopolitan cafe. There really is something for everyone here.
 
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