Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
TRIANGOLO LARIANO
They call the stretch of territory between Como and Lecco in the south and Bellagio in the
north the Triangolo Lariano (Lake Lario Triangle), a mountainous and crumpled territory
jammed with a surprising variety of landscapes. From the high and exhilarating 32km coast
road between Como and Bel-lagio to quiet inland villages, there's plenty to discover.
The pearl is Bellagio, suspended like a pendant on the promontory where the lake's
western and eastern arms split and head south. Hidden from view along the Como-Bellagio
road are enchanting lakeside villages, like Torno and Careno (which get no direct sunlight
in winter). The sunnier 22km eastern branch, between Bellagio and Lecco, is also a pretty
drive.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Torno
POP 1214
Spread around a point in the jagged shore, Torno is a lovely stop just 7km from Como - it's
easy to understand why Hermann Hesse fell in love with it when he visited in 1913. The
lakeside Piazza Casartelli, fronted by three restaurants and the
Chiesa di Santa Tecla
(a baroque
remake of the Romanesque original), the tiny port and shady trees complete the picture of
this front-row seat on the lake.
About a 10-minute walk northeast around the point is the Romanesque-Gothic
Chiesa di
San Giovanni
. It holds what is purported to be a holy nail from the cross of Jesus Christ, left
behind by a German crusading bishop in the 11th century.
About 1.5km further east along the lake,
Villa Pliniana
was built in the 16th century (and
therefore did not belong to the Plinys) and is one of the oldest ones located on the lake
(Lord Byron stayed here and Percy Shelley thought about buying it). There are long-stand-
ing plans to open the villa to the public, but it's yet to happen and still seems a while off.
An intermittently flowing fountain occasionally gushes from under the building into the
lake. The phenomenon was observed by the Plinys and, much later, by Leonardo da Vinci.
At the south end of Torno's lakeside square, the
Albergo Belvedere
( 031 41 91 00; Piazza Casar-
telli 3; meals €20-30; noon-2.30pm & 6.30-9pm Wed-Mon Mar-Dec)
, an old-time hotel-restaurant, has a
bucolic touch, with timber tables and walls dripping with black-and-white photos. In the
