Lake Como & Around - The Italian Lakes - page 229

warmer months, it opens out to a series of terrace tables, shaded by the twisting branches
of a linden tree that, since 1987, has been patiently cultivated sideways to form a pergola.
Lake fish and meat options feature prominently.
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Careno
About 1.5km south of the town of Nesso, Careno is signposted, but if you blink, you'll
miss it. This tiny, lakeside hamlet looks like an inverted triangle from the opposite shore,
with its church, the Romanesque Chiesa di San Martino , at the bottom. Satisfaction with dis-
covery and a shady, lakeside stroll should be followed by a meal at the charming Trattoria al
Porto ( 031 91 01 95; Via al Pontile 26; meals €20-25; noon-2.30pm & 6.30-9.30pm Tue-Sun) . With its
oddly shaped balcony- pergola just above the ferry landing, this place is a hit with Como
folks in the know and specialises in lake fish.
The bus stop for Careno is between Km15 and Km16. Head down the steep, stone stairs
from the road.
HIKING THE TRIANGOLO LARIANO
Hiking options abound in the Triangolo Lariano. The classic trail is known as the Dorsale (Ridge) and zigzags for
31km across the interior of this mountainous country from the Brunate funicular station to Bellagio. The standard
trail takes about 12 hours and is usually done in two stages, stopping in mountain huts along the way. The stand-
ard route follows mule trails, presents no particular difficulties to moderately fit ramblers and is also ideal for
mountain biking.
The more adventurous can follow the Dorsale Creste trail, which follows a series of mountain crests. Several
rifugi (mountain huts) are dotted along the way, and you'll find a couple of accommodation options at Pian del
Tivano , roughly halfway along the trail. You can do a little sci di fondo (cross-country skiing) here in winter.
From the 17th century until the early 1900s, when the coast road from Como to Bellagio was completed, travel-
lers used the 32km Strada Regia (Royal Way), a partly stone-paved path that links various villages on the west
coast of the Triangolo Lariano from Torno to Lezzeno. The easiest stretch connects Torno and Pognana Lario
(about five hours), while the stage from Pognana to Lezzeno via Nesso (or Careno) branches into mountainous
back country between villages. Other walking trails abound.
Ask at the main Como tourist office ( Click here ) for the fine Carta dei Sentieri (Trail Map; 1:25,000) produced
by the Comunità Montana Triangolo Lariano.
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