Poland - Eastern Europe - page 455

Dlugie Pobrze9e. & 058/301-88-78. Lunch and dinner items 24 zl-48 zl ($8-$16/£4.20-£9). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily
11am-11pm.
Salonik POLISH Gda ^ sk is blessed with two natural “splurge” choices. The
Goldwasser is one, and this elegant, upmarket “Salon,” just down from the Neptune
fountain on D l uga, is the other. The sign out front calls this a “Polish” restaurant, but
they're not talking about pierogies and potato pancakes. Think more along the lines
of “duck breast in plum sauce” or “lamb medallions.” The mood at lunch is less for-
mal, and the street-side terrace is makes for a very memorable midday meal. In the
evenings, you'll want to dress up a little to match the surroundings.
Dluga 18/21. & 058/322-00-44. Lunch and dinner items 30 zl-54 zl ($10-$18/£5.50-£10). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily
11am-midnight.
Expensive
Barracuda SEAFOOD From the outside, you could mistake this for a nightclub
(something about the way the sign BARRACUDA looks), but it's serious fish food at very
reasonable prices. Try the combined sole and salmon entree with spinach in crème
sauce. Good central location, just a block over from D l uga ulica. It also does a nice
range of steaks and pork dishes.
Piwna 61/63. & 058/301-49-62 . Lunch and dinner items 21 zl-30 zl ($7-$10/£4-£5.50). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily
11am-midnight.
Kansai JAPANESE Sushi hit the big time in Poland a couple of years ago, and
it seems every large Polish city now has a decent sushi joint. Kansai is one of the best.
Maybe it's the proximity to the sea and the high standards for seafood here generally,
but the sushi tastes fresher than most, and the maki rolls go far beyond the standard
tuna and salmon. The only drawbacks are the cost—but that goes with the territory—
and the early closing time. Like most Japanese restaurants, however, the atmosphere
is stark bordering on sterile, and you wouldn't want to linger long after your sake
anyway.
Oganta 124. & 058/324-08-88. Lunch and dinner items 24 zl-48 zl ($8-$16/£4.40-£9). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily
noon-9pm.
Moderate
Estragon INTERNATIONAL Newly opened eatery just off D l uga, combining
high-quality international dishes and a stylish yet unpretentious atmosphere. The
menu is a strong on what you might call the new “Continental” cuisine: steaks, pork
chops, and stuffed chicken breasts. The chicken stuffed with spinach is very nice and
a lighter alternative to heavy Polish cooking. Vegetarians will welcome the soy burger
on the menu. The unfussy presentation is reminiscent of something you might see in
New York's East Village, and the cook serves up a reasonable and recommendable fac-
simile of a New York-style cheesecake.
Chlebnicka 26. & 058/309-17-00. Lunch and dinner items 21 zl-27 zl ($7-$9/£4-£5). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily
11am-11pm.
Kreska INTERNATIONAL A trendy and highly regarded modern restaurant, spe-
cializing in what it calls “fusion” food. In this case, judging by the menu, fusion refers
to nothing more exotic than vegetarian lasagna, but no matter, the kitchen is trying
and the results are mostly good. The stark and stylish decor draws a good-looking