Poland - Eastern Europe - page 456

crowd in the evening. The kitchen really shines at lunch, though, when its freshly
made sandwiches and salads are just what the doctor ordered. Kreska opens early
(10am) for breakfast and offers a classic three eggs, toast, and hot beverage for 11 z l
($3.65/£1.90).
Sw. Ducha 2. & 058/300-05-94. Lunch and dinner items 18 zl-27 zl ($6-$9/£3.20-£5). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily
10am-11pm.
Restauracja Targ Rybny SEAFOOD The new kid in town, and quickly
emerging as one of the best places for fish—both grilled and fried. The location, a bit
out of the center, about 15 minutes walk from D l uga ulica, helps keep prices down.
For something different, try the pierogies stuffed with white fish. In summer, sit on
the terrace overlooking the square called—appropriately enough—the “fish market.”
Reservations are not needed at the moment, but that could change once this place hits
the big time.
Targ Rybny 6c. & 058/320-90-11. Lunch and dinner items 18 zl-27 zl ($6-$9/£3.20-£5). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily
11am-10pm.
Inexpensive
Neptun POLISH This traditional milk bar, on D l uga, just a few doors down from
the ultraposh Salonik, is probably the cheapest meal in central Gda ^ sk. Don't expect
anything fancy, just take a place in line with everyone else and point to the dish you
want when you get to the counter. The big portions of cabbage rolls, bigos, pork
chops, and other typical cafeteria items are good value for money. The prices are still
marked in groszy!
Dluga 33/34. & 058/301-49-88. Lunch and dinner items 6 zl-9 zl ($2-$3/£1.10-£1.60). No credit cards. Mon-Fri
8am-7pm; Sat 10am-6pm.
Pieregarnia U Dzika POLISH “Pieregarnias,” as the word suggests, are
restaurants that specialize in pierogies and are relative late-comers to the Polish dining
scene. This one, centrally located around the corner from busy Mariacka street, is bet-
ter than most and a good place to sample those little dumplings and, naturally, a glass
of beer to wash them down. The menu includes both the standard stuffings liked
ground beef, potato, and cottage cheese, and also a few more inventive varieties. Piero-
gies “Wile ^ skie” are a nice change of pace, with buckwheat groats and bacon instead
of the usual potatoes and cottage cheese. Servings are a large 10 pieces, enough for a
full meal and then some.
Piwna 59/60. & 058/305-26-76. Lunch and dinner items 15 zl-21 zl ($5-$7/£2.70-£4). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily
11am-11pm.
EXPLORING GDA% SK
Central Gda ^ sk is one of the most pleasantly walkable cities in central Europe. You
couldn't ask for a more strikingly beautiful and colorful main street than ul. D l uga,
the heart of the G l ówne Miasto. As you walk its length, from the Golden Gate at one
end to D l ugi Targ and the magnificent Green Gate at the other, bear in mind that
nearly everything you see was rebuilt after World War II. The focal point of D l uga is
the fountain of Neptune, the god of the sea. The fountain dates from 1549. You'll
find the main tourist information office just opposite the fountain. The Green Gate
was originally meant to house visiting royalty, but now it serves as an exhibition space