Poland - Eastern Europe - page 454

Moderate
Biala Lilia This lodging is somewhere between a small hotel and a pension. It
offers excellent value, given the crisp modern furnishings and the in-town location,
just across the bridge from the Green Door and the delights of D l uga. After so many
sterile contemporary rooms, it's nice to see one that actually looks inviting. The cream
walls and dark green carpeting lend a warmth that makes you want to linger. Ask the
staff to show you the unique second-floor garden terrace out the back.
Spichrzowa 16. & 058/301-70-74. Fax [phone]. www.bialalilia.pl. 16 units. 245 zl ($85/£45) double. AE, DC,
MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant. In room:TV, dataport, minibar.
Kamienica Gotyk Ordinarily, you'd expect to pay a fortune for the loca-
tion—in Gda ^ sk's oldest house on its loveliest street—but by some quirk of fate this
charming little guesthouse is one of the least expensive hotels in town. I guess the
owners like to feel virtuous. Admittedly, there's not much in the way of services or
amenities, and the room furnishings feel like an afterthought, but the location is
unbeatable. If you can get in, don't hesitate to book it.
Mariacka 1. & 058/301-85-67. www.gotykhouse.eu. 5 units. 250 zl ($83/£45) double. AE, DC, MC, V. In room:TV.
Inexpensive
Angela Quieter than it looks, since the pension is perched back away from the
busy suburban street. Once you walk back to where the house is you see a lovely gar-
den setting and a very clean and well-run pension. The rooms are basic, but good
value in Gda ^ sk's overpriced hotel market. It's not far from the similar Stemp-Tur
pension, so you might try taking a look at both before choosing. Take a cab on arrival
to find the place; once you've checked in and gotten situated the receptionist can help
you with the buses in and out of the center.
Beethovena 12. & 058/302-23-15. www.villaangela.pl. 18 units. 210 zl ($70/£40) double. AE, DC, MC, V. Ameni-
ties: Restaurant. In room:TV.
Stemp-Tur Not as nice on the inside as the Angela (and no English spoken),
but the garden is an absolute delight. Johann Sebastien Bach Street, where the pen-
sion is located, is right out of a page of Better Homes and Gardens magazine. If Beaver
Cleaver had been raised in Gda ^ sk, he would have lived here. Take a taxi to get here,
and then use the bus for getting around.
Bacha 45. & 058/306-35-30. www.stemptur.com.pl. 5 units. 160 zl ($53/£30) double. AE, DC, MC, V.
WHERE TO DINE
With the possible exception of Kraków/Kazimierz, Gda ^ sk has some of the best
restaurants in Poland. You'll find a mix of cuisines and some great Polish places at all
price levels. Most are just a short walk from D l uga.
Very Expensive
Goldwasser INTERNATIONAL A local institution and well worth a splurge
as much for the food as for the unbeatable riverside location and gorgeous interior.
Here's also the place to sample “Goldwasser,” a slightly sweetish vodka flavored with,
among other things, flakes of gold. Everything gets the thumbs up, but the fresh fish
dishes come highly recommended, as do the homemade pierogies. In summer, sit out-
side on the terrace. In winter, warm yourself up in cozy, tavernlike surroundings.

Finds