Poland - Eastern Europe - page 425

EXPENSIVE
Klezmer Hois JEWISH Arguably the best of the Jewish-themed restaurants
that line Szeroka in Kazimierz. The “Fiddler on the Roof ” motif has become big busi-
ness in the former Jewish quarter in recent years, and what often happens is that the
food part gets lost in the klezmer shuffle. Luckily that's not happened here. There's not
much recognizably Jewish or kosher on the menu, with the exception of appetizers like
gefilte fish and carp “Jewish style,” but everything is creatively prepared and done well.
My favorite is the beef casserole in a spicy sauce of garlic and cumin. The party atmos-
phere on crowded night is infectious, as the wine pours and the fiddlers fiddle. Good
for groups, but probably too boisterous for singles dining alone.
Szeroka 6. & 012/411-12-45. Lunch and dinner items 24 zl-36 zl ($8-$12/£4.40-£7). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily
9am-11pm.
Nostalgia POLISH A meal here is like dining in the country home of a well-
to-do friend—warm and inviting yet somehow still refined and special. The atmos-
phere extends to the cooking as well: Polish staples like pierogies, pork, and game, but
well turned out and served on fine china. This is a perfect balance between something
like Cyrano de Bergerac (see above) and CK Dezerterzy (below). The same attention
to detail as the former, but with the more relaxed feel and prices of the latter. Excel-
lent selection of meatless entrees for vegetarians. Reserve in advance to be on the safe
side.
Karmelicka 10. & 012/425-42-60. Reservations recommended. Lunch and dinner items 24 zl-36 zl
($8-$12/£4.40-£7). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon-11pm.
MODERATE
CK Dezerterzy POLISH A cozy, family-style tavern serving well-prepared tra-
ditional Polish cooking, in a warm setting down a small side street just off the Rynek
G l ówny. It's perfect if you've just arrived and want a hassle-free, very good meal, and
don't want to stray too far from the hotel. The only possible drawback is that it's pop-
ular with guidebooks (like this one), so while you'll probably find many Poles on the
night you're here and tucking into your bigos or pierogies, you may wind up next to
a table of guests from your own hometown.
Bracka 6. & 012/422-79-31. Lunch and dinner items 18 zl-27 zl ($6-$9/£3.30-£5). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily
10am-10pm.
Flower Power INTERNATIONAL The grooviest little nook in Kazimierz.
Exotic, Moroccan-inspired dishes like chicken tajine, served with lemon and olives
(just like in Marrakech). The front room is more like a standard coffee shop, complete
with free Wi-Fi. The back room is more relaxed, with embroidered cushions on the
floor for sitting and water pipes for hire. The sign at the backroom sums it up: PLEASE
REMOVE YOUR SHOES , PEACE AND LOVE . Excellent coffees and a nice range of special
teas.
Nova (just off Plac Nowy). & 012/430-64-78. Lunch and dinner items 15 zl-24 zl ($5-$8/£2.60-£4.50). No credit
cards. Daily 10am-9pm.
Le Scandale INTERNATIONAL Great breakfast or light lunch spot right on
Plac Nowy in Kazimierz. Decent bagels, eggs, and coffee served from 8am. On week-
ends, arrive early to snag one of those highly coveted square-side tables, perfect for
people-watching while sipping your espresso. The menu is heavy on international