Poland - Eastern Europe - page 424

definitely gets it right. In addition to the standard 8- and 10-bed rooms typical for a
hostel, Nathan's rents out private doubles. In summer most of the guests are backpack-
ers, but during the rest of the year, the hostel fills up with people of all age groups
looking to save money while not sacrificing on location or cleanliness. Perks include
free laundry, an Internet room, and a DVD movie room in case you get a rainy day.
Sw. Agnieszki 1. & 012/422-35-45. www.nathansvilla.com. 20 units. 160 zl ($53/£30) double. MC, V. Amenities:
Bar; laundry service; nonsmoking rooms.
U Pana Cogito If you don't mind walking, this renovated villa complex,
about 15 to 20 minutes by foot from the city center, represents real value. The mod-
ern rooms, done up in neutral beige and gold, have all of the personality of a standard
Holiday Inn, but they're clean and quiet, with nicely done bathrooms and unexpected
touches at this price point like air-conditioning in the rooms and full Internet access
(LAN connection).
Baluckiego 6. & 012/269-72-00. Fax [phone]. www.pcogito.pl. 14 units. 250 zl ($83/£45) double. AE, DC,
MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; nonsmoking rooms. In room:A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, hair dryer.
WHERE TO DINE
Most of the fancier and more established restaurants are in the Old Town on the main
square or along the streets running off the square, particularly to the south. The newer,
trendier, and sometimes better places are located in Kazimierz. One area in the former
ghetto to look is along Plac Nowy; the other dining cluster, including most of the Jew-
ish-themed restaurants, is along Szeroka. Except for the very pricey places in the Old
Town, dress is mostly casual. That's particularly true of the Kazimierz locales, which
cater to a largely student and young professional crowd. Note that though many
restaurants claim to stay open until 11pm or midnight, on slow nights it's not unusual
for kitchens to start closing down at 10pm. Go early to avoid disappointment.
VERY EXPENSIVE
Cyrano de Bergerac FRENCH It's such a pleasure to taste Polish food with
a French twist when it's done this well. That means staples like game, pork, and duck,
but with a nuance. The duck, for example, isn't served with apple or cranberry, but
caramelized peach and cardamom instead. The pork knuckle is candied in honey—
the glazing giving it a sweetish barbecue flavor. The brick exposed interior is stunning,
with candlelight and white linens on the table. The service is polished, but can be slow
on busy nights. Beware the prices on wines, with many bottles pushing the $60-to-
$90 range. Dress for this one and reserve in advance.
Slawkowska 26. & 012/411-72-88. Lunch and dinner items 42 zl-90 zl ($14-$30/£7.50-£16). AE, DC, MC, V.
Mon-Sat noon-midnight.
Edo Sushi Bar JAPANESE One of the best sushi restaurants in central
Europe is on a quiet corner in Kazimierz. The hushed, spare, modern decor puts the
emphasis firmly on the food. Very fresh nigiri sushi and some creative maki rolls keep
the crowds happy. My favorite is the “rainbow roll”—an all-in-one sushi medley—
washed down with a glass of Polish beer, which pairs surprisingly well with the fish.
Bo9ego Ciala 3. & 0661/316-607. Lunch and dinner items 30 zl-48 zl ($10-$16/£5.50-£9). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily
11am-10pm.

Value