Poland - Eastern Europe - page 426

munchies, like quesadillas, simple pastas, and sandwiches, but also does well with
steaks and seafood.
Plac Nowy 9. & 012/430-68-55. Lunch and dinner items 15 zl-24 zl ($5-$8/£2.60-£4.50). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily
8am-11pm.
INEXPENSIVE
Any Time INTERNATIONAL I love this little place just down from the Plac
Nowy in Kazimierz. If you're looking for simple sandwiches, fresh ingredients, and
homesick-curing desserts like chocolate cake and apple pie, definitely stop by. It's ideal
for a late lunch after a long slog through the Jewish quarter. Possibly too informal for
a special dinner, but not bad for a quick bite if other plans are on the evening card.
Estery 16. & 012/625-60-61. Lunch and dinner items 12 zl-18 zl ($4-$6/£2.20-£3.30). No credit cards. Daily
10am-10pm.
Bagelmama INTERNATIONAL Great bagels, as well as very good lentil
soup, and even decent burritos, in a tiny shop just near to where Kazimierz starts if
you're walking from Wawel and the Old Town. This is the place to go for that classic
bagel breakfast with smoked lox, onions, and capers (so good in fact it's worth skip-
ping the pension's spread of tired cheese and cold cuts for). Be forewarned: There are
only three tables, so be prepared to wait or get takeout.
Estery 16. & 012/431-19-42. Lunch and dinner items 12 zl-18 zl ($4-$6/£2.20-£3.30). No credit cards. Tues-Sun
10am-9pm.
Fabryka Pizza ITALIAN The pizza standards in Poland continue to rise and this
new Kazimierz spot is widely considered to be the new pace-setter. The excellent piz-
zas are cooked in a wood-fired oven. You can order “small” or “large,” with small being
enough for two normal-size appetites. The interior is stark, dark, and highly trendy.
The names of the pizzas are especially amusing. “Hog on Vacation” is ham with
pineapple—get the idea?
Józefa 34. & 012/433-80-80. Lunch and dinner items 12 zl-21 zl ($4-$7/£2.20-£4). No credit cards. Mon-Sat
10am-10pm; Sun noon-10.
Piero9ki U Vincenta POLISH This tiny and highly inviting little pierogi
stand just off of Józefa in Kazimierz serves every style of pierogi imaginable. The house
version, “Vincent,” is stuffed with minced meat and spicy lentils, served with fried
onions and little bits of bacon. Other concoctions include Moroccan-inspired cous-
cous pierogies, “Górale” pierogies, stuffed with sheep's cheese, and dozens of others.
Try it with a cup of beet soup. The four tables hold about 12 diners in all.
Józefa 11. & 012/430-68-34. Lunch and dinner items 9 zl-12 zl ($3-$4/£1.60-£2.20). No credit cards. Sun-Thurs
noon-9pm; Fri-Sat noon-10pm.
U Babci Maliny POLISH This is Kraków's answer to the “Neptun” in
Gda ^ sk, in other words a decent “milk bar,” serving not-bad-at-all Polish standards
like bigos, pork dishes, and pierogies at prices that make it hard to believe they can
pay the rent. It's a little tricky to find. Walk into the building and through some rooms
and down some stairs. Usually you can follow the crowd, since this place is justifiably
popular. Order your food, get a number, and then wait around until your order is
called. As is customary with milk bars, watch the early closing times and smoking is
not permitted.