Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
it's possible to see over the Maasai Steppe to the west and to Lake Jipe and into Kenya to
the northeast.
Dalla-dallas run several times daily along the unpaved but good road winding up from
Mwanga to Usangi (Tsh2000, 1½ hours), from around 8am. Hiring a taxi costs from
Tsh35,000. From both Arusha (Tsh6000, four hours) and Moshi (Tsh4000, two hours),
there are several direct buses daily to Usangi, departing in the morning. Ask to get dropped
at Lomwe Secondary School. Allow at least two to three days for an excursion to Usangi,
including time to get here and organise things.
Mkomazi National Park
Wild and undeveloped Mkomazi spreads along the Kenya border in the shadow of the Pare
Mountains, its dry savannah lands contrasting sharply with the moist forests of the Pares.
The reserve, which is contiguous with Kenya's Tsavo West National Park, is known for its
black rhinos, which were introduced into the area from South Africa for breeding. There
are currently 11 rhinos, up from zero in 1989, when Tony Fitzjohn (the force behind con-
servation work in Mkomazi) started his work here. All are within a heavily protected 45-sq-
km enclosure built around Hafino Mountain in north-central Mkomazi, and not viewable
as part of general tourism.
In addition to the rhinos, there are wild dogs (also reintroduced and, as part of a special
endangered species program, also not viewable as part of general tourism). Animals that
you're more likely to spot include oryx, eland, dik-dik, the rarely seen gerenuk, kudu,
Coke's hartebeest and an array of birds. The huge seasonal elephant herds that once crossed
regularly between Tsavo and Mkomazi are beginning to come back, after reaching a low
point of just a dozen elephants in the area in 1989, although elephants still are not com-
monly spotted in Mkomazi. The main reasons for visiting the park, apart from enjoying
Babu's Camp, are for birding and to appreciate the alluring wilderness area and evocat-
ive nyika bush landscapes studded with baobab and thorn acacia and broken by low, rocky
hills. Despite its relative ease of access, Mkomazi is still well off the beaten track and of-
fers a wilderness experience.
BIRDWATCHING IN MKOMAZI NATIONAL PARK
With over 400 species, Mkomazi is a birder's delight. Species to watch for in-
clude various weaver birds, secretary birds, crowned and bataleur eagles,
helmeted guinea fowl, various hornbills, storks and the pygmy falcon. Guided
bush walks can be arranged at Zange entry gate or with Babu's Camp.
