Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Motel. From Mbaga to Same, departures are at 4am. It's also possible to catch one of the
several daily dalla-dallas running from Same to Kisiwani, and then walk about 5km uphill
to Mbaga.
If you're driving to Mbaga, there is an alternate route via Mwembe, which can be
reached by following the Dar es Salaam-Arusha highway 5km south to the dirt road lead-
ing off to the left.
Mwanga & Around
This district capital sprawls across the plains at the foot of the Pares 50km north of Same
on the Dar es Salaam-Arusha highway. Once away from the scruffy central junction and
old market area, it's a shady, pleasant town with wide, unpaved roads, swathes of green
and stands of palm. It's of interest primarily as a transport junction for changing vehicles
to Usangi, the starting point for excursions in the northern Pares.
Anjela Inn ( 027-275 8381; d Tsh15,000, in newer annexe Tsh20,000-25,000;
) has clean, albeit noisy doubles in the main building and similar but larger and somewhat
quieter rooms in a house next door, plus a restaurant. It's about 10 minutes on foot from the
highway and bus stand; follow the main road in towards the 'new' market, turn left down a
wide, tree-lined lane at the small clutch of signboards, and then keep straight on.
About 10km south of Mwanga is Nyumba ya Mungu (House of God) Reservoir ,
home to Luo fishing communities that originally migrated here from the Lake Victoria area.
Usangi
Usangi, lying in a valley ringed by mountains about 25km east of Mwanga, is the centre of
the northern Pares and the best base for exploring the region.
The best accommodation is at the good Mhako Hostel & Restaurant ( 027-275
7642; s/d without bathroom Tsh10,000/20,000, s/ste with bathroom Tsh20,000/30,000) ,
with clean, pleasant rooms and good, inexpensive meals. Some of the non-self-contained
rooms only have interior windows; it's worth paying a little more for the nice ones with
toilets and balconies. Mhako is along the main road to the right as you enter Usangi.
There's also a small school guesthouse and camping at Lomwe Secondary School
(camping/r per person Tsh2000/5000) , about 1.5km past Mhako Hostel, following the
main road (bear right at the fork). This is also the best place to arrange a guide; ask for the
school director. Even if school isn't in session, someone will be around to help. If you sleep
at the school, you can prepare your own meals (bring your own stove and all equipment
and ingredients), or you can arrange to eat meals prepared by school staff.
In addition to short walks, it's possible to hike in a long day through Kindoroko Forest
Reserve (which begins about 7km south of Usangi village) to the top of Mt Kindoroko
(2113m), the highest peak in the northern Pares. From the upper slopes of Mt Kindoroko,
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