Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
148
used to dine with his friends—though the building is ne w. The luxurious old-time-style
dining room features high-tech acoustics and superb dancers, creating a wonderful envi-
ronment for this ex cellent per formance. D oors open at 8pm.
Carlos G ardel 3200 at
Anchorena, across from the Abasto Shopping Center.
&
11/4876-6363.
Tickets $80-$100 (£54-
£68). Metro: Carlos Gardel.
Señor Tango
This enormous theater is mor e akin to a B roadway pr oduction hall
than a traditional tango salon, but the dancers are fantastic. The owner, who clearly loves
to perform, is also a good singer . Walls are covered with photos of what appears to be
every celebrity who's ever visited B uenos Aires—and all seem to hav e made it to S eñor
Tango. Diners choose among steak, chicken, or fish for dinner. Despite the huge crowd,
the food quality is commendable. H ave dinner or come only for the sho w (dinner is at
8:30pm; shows start at 10pm).
Vieytes 1653 at Domingo.
&
11/4303-0212.
Tickets $120 (£81).
No metro access.
Tango Dance Clubs (Milongas)
Tango palaces and dance performances are wonderful, but nothing compares to the lure
of a
milonga
(tango salon), and Buenos Aires seems to have more now than ever. Rather
than destroy tango, the peso crisis has heightened its popularity, here and abroad. Just as
the early Porteños turned to tango a century ago to alleviate their pain and isolation, now
modern residents are dancing their melancholy away . With the increase in tourism and
the enormous number of E uropeans and North Americans lured here by the dance, the
number of
milongas
is unprecedented.
The numbers listed here are not necessarily those of the v enues, but rather the dance
organizations that organiz e the ev ents, often with r otating venues. For fur ther details,
check the listings in
La Milonguera
or
El Tangauta,
the city's tango magazines. There's
usually a $5 to $10 (£3.40-£6.80) fee to get into a
milonga.
Tango, like most nightlife
in Buenos Aires, is a v ery late affair; most
milongas
don't get busy until 2am—ev en on
weeknights.
Most importantly:
Note that this scene is not without its r ules and obstacles. Tango
is an ar t form and a unique par t of B uenos Air es cultur e. You should nev er enter a
milonga
with the obvious air of a clueless tourist, which might alter the atmospher e of a
venue. You might even be refused entry or asked to leave if your behavior or appearance
upsets the balance of a place in some of the smaller and more traditional venues. In fact,
some of the city 's underground
milongas
aren't listed anywhere and require a contact to
get in, akin to a 1920s speak-easy . If possible, attend a
milonga
with a local who kno ws
the scene.
El Arranque
Finds
This dance venue looks like a Knights of Columbus hall, but it 's
one of the most authentic v enues for
milongas;
it's also one of the fe w places that hosts
afternoon dancing. Tango's late-night schedule could drive even a vampire crazy, but here
you can dance and still get a r eal night's sleep after ward. No matter ho w old and pot-
bellied a man is, he can be with any woman in the crowd as long as he dances well. Even
older women, however, tend to keep up appearances her e, dressing beautifully and styl-
ishly. This place will be v ery comfortable for older cr owds. They strictly enfor ce tradi-
tional tango rules about separating the sexes, however; couples might not even be allowed
to sit together. Dancing begins most afternoons at 3pm. Closed Monday.
Bartolomé Mitre
1759 (at Callao).
&
11/4371-6767.
Admission $5 (£3.40). Metro: Congreso.
El Beso Nightclub
Finds
The way to this club may be a little confusing, but follo w
my directions and you'll be fine. It's unmarked, so the street address is your only indication
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