Buenos Aires - Argentina - page 147

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that you're in the right spot. Walk upstairs, pay y our fee, and squeez e past the cr owded
bar blocking your view. The small space beyond maintains the air of a 1940s nightclub ,
updated for the modern era with brilliant reds and modern abstractions painted on some
of its walls. Ceiling lamps made fr om car air filters cast a golden glo w on the dancers.
Some of the best per formers drag their egos with them to the floor , so if y ou're not so
good on y our feet, just watch; the last thing y ou want is to bump into someone. The
divisions between the milongueras and milongueros are not so str ong, and the sex es tend
to mix informally. Reserve a table ahead of time if you can. Different milongas take place
on different nights. Check their calendar in adv ance for details. S nacks, wine, and beer
are on sale. Riobamba 416 (at Corrientes). & 11/4953-2794 or 11/15-4938-8108 (cell). Admission
$5 (£3.40). Metro: Callao.
El Niño Bien Finds If you want to trav el back in time, to an era when tango
ruled Buenos Aires, few places will do you better than El Niño Bien. The beautiful main
dance hall is straight fr om the Belle Epoque; you'll half-expect Carlos Gardel himself to
show up behind the mic. Dressed in black, men and women tango while patr ons at side
tables r espectfully study their techniques. D on't look too closely at any one, ho wever,
unless y ou know what y ou're doing: Milonga ey es—staring acr oss a r oom to attract a
partner onto the dance floor—are taken seriously. Food is served, but don't bother unless
you're famished; it's only so-so. Unfortunately, Niño Bien is becoming a victim of its own
success, and many tour gr oups are starting to unload her e. If you're looking to find a
tango teacher, one will probably find you first at this venue; many instructors come here
seeking students for priv ate lessons. Centro Región Leonesa, Humberto I no . 1462 (at San
José). & 11/4483-2588. Admission $5-$6 (£3.40-£4.05). No metro access.
La Viruta Finds This is one of the most inter esting milongas. It is authentic, but it
attracts a v ery young crowd of P orteños and expats who hav e come fr om all o ver the
world to dance their liv es away in B uenos Aires, where the living is good and cheap .
Many nights it is just a milonga. Other nights host shows and competitions, many involv-
ing tango and folkloric and modern dance. La Viruta is in the cellar of the Armenian
Community Center. When decorated with balloons for some events, it looks a little like
a high school prom from the 1970s. Armenia 1366 (at Cabrera). & 11/4774-6357. Admission
$8 (£5.40). No metro access.
Mano a Mano at Plaza Bohemia Finds This Thursday-night-only milonga event
is run by Helen Halldórsdóttir, a nativ e of I celand whom tango lo vers all o ver Buenos
Aires simply call La Vikinga. She used to r un a milonga called Bien Pulenta, and uses a
similar format her e at her ne w event. It's an ex cellent choice, with her v ery welcoming
tango classes fr om 9 to 10:30pm, and a practice milonga for students until just after
midnight, when the real milonga begins. She gets a particularly attractive crowd, many of
whom are professional dancers and who come here to hang out after performing at shows
across Buenos Aires. But don't be intimidated, as H elen mixes the dancing sets up with
live performances. There's a bit of flair, with live bands, shows, and special guests such as
visiting tango champions; y ou'll enjoy yourself even if you're a wallflower. Maipú 444 (at
Corrientes). & 11/15-5865-8279 (cell). Admission $8 (£5.40). Metro: Florida or Lavalle.
Salón Canning Finds This is among the most authentic of all of the milongas. At the
end of a long hallway , spectators cr owd around the main dance floor to watch couples
make their way ar ound it. S alón Canning is kno wn for its extr emely smooth, high-
quality wooden par quet floor, considered one of the best for dancing in all of B uenos
Aires. This tango hall is among the few things left in Buenos Aires that still bear the name

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