Buenos Aires - Argentina - page 145

147

been in O pera Colon. Lobb y exhibitions ar e usually fr ee. Corrientes 1530 (at P araná).
& 0800/333-5254. Metro: Uruguay.
Teatro Nacional Cervantes Some of the city's best theater takes place here, in this
production house originally built by a group of Spanish actors as a thank you to Buenos
Aires. The building is sumptuous, in an ornate S panish Imperial style, using materials
brought from Spain. In 2008 and 2009, a r estoration program has helped the detailed
facade gleam anew. Calle Libertad 815 (at Córdoba). & 11/4816-4224. Metro: Tribunales.
Teatro O pera This futuristic, str eamlined Ar t D eco theater has been adapted for
Broadway-style shows. The building is itself a unique and rar e example of Ar t Deco in
Buenos Air es. The facade has undergone a par tial r enovation, which has r evealed the
lightning-bolt glass panels once hidden b y advertising signs. Av. Corrientes 860 (at Suipa-
cha). & 11/4326-1335. Metro: Carlos Pellegrini.
Teatro Presidente Alvear Tango and other music sho ws take place at this theater .
Av. Corrientes 1659 (at Montevideo). & 11/4374-6076. Metro: Callao.
THE CLUB & MUSIC SCENE
Tango Shows
In Buenos Aires, you can watch the tango or dance the tango . You'll have many oppor-
tunities to see the dance during your visit: Tango and milonga dancers frequent the streets
of La Boca and San Telmo, some hotels offer tango shows in their lobbies and bars, and
tango salons blanket the city . San Telmo's are the most famous (besides Café Tortoni),
and they usually combine dinner and a sho w. Call a radio-taxi, or remise, to get to S an
Telmo, La Boca, or Barracas at night. For safety's sake, don't take the metro there or walk.
Most of the tango shows also offer direct transportation. While we include some general
ticket prices as a guide, ask y our hotel concierge for special ticket prices, which include
transportation from the hotel (usually a shuttle bus). Travel agencies can also sometimes
book tickets at group rates.
Café Tortoni High-quality yet inexpensive tango shows take place in the back r oom
of the Café Tortoni. The prices do not include dinner as in other tango sho ws, but you
can order off the menu and pay extra her e. Shows are every day at 9pm ex cept Tuesday.
Av. de Mayo 829. & 11/4342-4328. No cover. Metro: Plaza de Mayo.
El Querandí El Querandí offers the best historically based tango sho w in the city ,
tracing the tradition fr om its early r oots in bor dellos, when only men danced it, to its
current leggy, sexy style. A great slab of beef and glass of wine come with the show. Open
Monday through Saturday; dinner begins at 8:30pm, followed by the show at 10:15pm.
Perú 302 at Moreno. & 11/4345-0331. Tickets $60-$80 (£41-£54). Metro: Moreno or Bolívar.
El Viejo Almacén The most famous of the city 's tango salons, the Almacén offers
what some consider the city 's most authentic per formance. S hows inv olve traditional
Argentine-style tango (many other sho ws featur e international-style tango). S unday
through Thursday sho ws ar e at 10pm; F riday and S aturday sho ws ar e at 9:30 and
11:45pm. Dinner is served each night before the show starts, in the three-story restaurant
across the street. Guests may opt for dinner and the show or show only. Some hotels offer
transportation. Independencia and Balcar ce. & 11/4307-6689. Tickets $60-$80 (£41-£54).
Metro: Independencia.
Esquina Carlos Gardel In my opinion, this is one of the most elegant tango
shows. It's on the former site of the Chanta C uatro—a restaurant where Carlos G ardel

5