Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
silk tradition remains the prime local handicraft and some villagers still cultivate silk-
worms; come in June or September to see them haggling over sacks of cocoons.
4 EMIR HAN
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(Kapalı Çarşı Caddesi) Bursa was on the Silk Road, and camel caravans stored their pre-
cious cargo in the ground-floor rooms while drovers and merchants slept and did busi-
ness upstairs. Silk purveyors still sell here.
Afrodisias
Afrodisias' (admission incl museum " 8; 9am-7pm May-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Apr) relative remoteness
amidst Roman poplars, green fields and warbling birds safeguards its serenity from the
masses. Afrodisias outdoes Ephesus for sheer scale, and its on-site museum is more im-
pressive. The city had several incarnations - including as capital of Roman Caria and a
Byzantine Orthodox city - before being abandoned in the 12th century.
Afrodisias is largely overgrown, with many side paths passing through thickets and
bramble. While this lends a certain exotic feel, it's sensible to wear long pants and good
shoes. Some Afrodisian ruins are also surrounded by brackish pools of black water, and
unexpected soft patches may lurk underfoot. Try to keep upwind of the occasional tract-
ors, from which workmen spray chemicals at the weeds.
The cafe, shop, toilets and museum are inside the entrance. Take the circular site tour
first, saving the (cooler) indoor museum for last. The counter-clockwise route around the
site is less affected by the occasional midmorning package-tour groups.
Getting There & Away
Afrodisias is 55km southeast of Nazilli and 101km from Denizli. Tours from Pamukkale
usually run " 70 per person (depending on the operator and number of participants). Gener-
ally, a four-person minimum is required. You'll have around 2½ hours on-site. Otherwise,
car rental ( " 80 per day, plus " 70 for petrol) or taxis are options for small groups.
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