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(Via Albinelli 40; meals €17; lunch Mon-Sat, dinner Fri & Sat) Forget the Michelin stars for a
second. Cloistered upstairs in a utilitarian apartment block, Aldina is a precious secret
guarded loyally by local shoppers from the adjacent produce market. The lunch-only
menu is spearheaded by the kind of homemade grub that only an Italian nonna raised on
hand-made pasta can concoct. There's no written menu; take what's in the pot and revel in
the people-watching potential.
Trattoria Ermes
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(Via Ganaceto 89; meals €20; lunch Mon-Sat) Here's yet another fabulous, affordable little
lunch spot, tucked into a single wood-panelled room at the northern edge of downtown
Modena. An older couple runs the place - she cooks, he juggles plates and orders while
keeping up a nonstop stream of banter with the customers. The menu changes daily de-
pending on what's fresh at the market.
TRATTORIA
Trattoria Il Fantino
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( 059 22 36 46; www.gustamodena.it/ilfantino ; Via Donzi 7; meals €15; 7-10.30pm Tue-Sat) More
homemade Modenese miracles forged in a hole-in-the-wall-sized dining room that can't
have changed much since the Risorgimento (reunification period). Arrive early and
squeeze into one of 45 narrow pews.
TRATTORIA
Ristorante da Danilo
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TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €€
(Via Coltellini 29-31; meals €25-30; noon-3pm & 7pm-midnight Mon-Sat) Speedy waiters glide
around balancing bread baskets, wine bottles and pasta dishes in this deliciously tradition-
al dining room where first dates mingle with animated families and office groups on a
birthday jaunt.
What would pass as outstanding in any other country passes as normal in Danilo: anti-
pasti of salami, pecorino and fig marmalade; secondos (second courses) of bollito misto
(mixed boiled meats) and a vegetarian risotto al radicchio trevigiano (with red chicory).
GASTRONOMIC €€€
Hosteria Giusti
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