Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
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(
041 277 03 69; Calle del Cappeller 3278; meals €25-35;
11am-3pm & 7-10pm Mon-Sat;
Ca'
Rezzonico) Venetian regulars pack this hidden wood-panelled room hung with football-
championship scarves and fragrant with mouthwatering seafood: pasta with shellfish and
sweet prawns; herb-laced, grilled orata ( bream); and Venetian tris di saor sarde, scampi e
sogliole (sardines, prawns and sole in tangy Venetian saor marinade). Service is leisurely;
bide your time with a Negroni aperitivo , or postprandial sgropin ( prosecco -lemon
sorbet).
Enoteca Ai Artisti
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RISTORANTE €€€
( 041 523 89 44; www.enotecaartisti.com ; Fondamenta della Toletta 1169a; meals €40-50;
noon-4pm & 6.30-10pm Mon-Sat; Ca' Rezzonico) Indulgent cheeses, exceptional nero di sep-
pia (cuttlefish ink) pasta, and tender tagliata (sliced steak) drizzled with aged balsamic
vinegar atop rocket are paired with exceptional wines by the glass by your oeno-phile
hosts. Sidewalk tables for two make great people-watching.
TOP OF CHAPTER
5 San Polo & Santa Croce
All'Arco
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VENETIAN
( 041 520 56 66; Calle dell'Ochialer 436; cicheti €1.50-4; 8am-3.30pm Mon-Sat Sep-Jun, plus
6-9pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct; Rialto-Mercato) Father-son maestri Francesco and Matteo invent
Venice's best cicheti daily with Rialto Market finds. Behind marble counters, Francesco
wraps poached Bassano white asparagus with seasoned pancetta, while Matteo creates
otrega (butterfish) crudo with mint-olive oil marinade and Hawaiian red-clay salt.
ProntoPesce
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SEAFOOD, CICHETI
( 041 822 02 98; www.prontopesce.it ; Rialto Pescheria 319, San Polo; cicheti €3-8; 9am-2.45pm &
7-11.30pm Tue-Sat; Rialto-Mercato) Alongside Venice's fish market, this designer deli
serves artfully composed crudi (Venetian-style sushi), well-dressed seafood salads, le-
gendary Saturday-only fish risotto (served at 1pm exactly) and superb shellfish stews in
 
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