Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
winter. Grab a stool and a (unfortunately) plastic glass of DOC Soave to have with
folpetti
(baby octopus) salad and plump prawn
crudi,
or enjoy yours dockside along the Grand
Canal.
VENETIAN, CICHETI
€
Dai Zemei
( 041 520 85 46;
www.ostariadaizemei.it
; Ruga Vecchia San Giovanni 1045, San Polo; cicheti €1.50-4;
9am-8pm Wed-Mon; San Silvestro)
The
zemei
(twins) who run this closet-sized
cicheti
counter serve loyal regulars and well-informed foodie tourists small meals with outsized
imagination: octopus salad and marinated rocket, duck breast drizzled with truffle oil, or
crostini loaded up with tuna-leek salad.
Antiche Carampane
VENETIAN
€€
( 041 524 01 65;
www.antichecarampane.com
; Rio Terà delle Carampane 1911, San Polo; meals
€30-45; noon-2.30pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sat; San Stae)
Hidden in the once-shady lanes behind
Ponte delle Tette, this culinary indulgence is a trick to find. The sign proudly announcing
'no tourist menu' signals a welcome change: say goodbye to soggy lasagne and hello to
silky, lagoon-fresh
crudi
, asparagus and
granseola
(lagoon crab) salad, cloudlike gnocchi,
and San Pietro (whitefish) atop grilled
radicchio trevisano
.
Osteria La Zucca
MODERN ITALIAN
€€
( 041 524 15 70;
www.lazucca.it
;
Calle del Tentor 1762, Santa Croce; meals €30-45; 12.30-2.30pm
& 7-10.30pm Mon-Sat; ; San Stae)
Vegetable-centric, seasonal small plates bring Vene-
tian spice-trade influences to local produce: zucchini with ginger zing, cinnamon-tinged
pumpkin flan, and raspberry spice cake. Herbed roast lamb is respectable here too, but the
island-grown produce is the breakout star. The snug wood-panelled interior gets toasty, so
reserve canalside seats in summer.
Al Pesador
MODERN ITALIAN
€€€
( 041 523 94 92;
www.alpesador.it
; Campo San Giacometto 125, San Polo; cicheti €1.50-5, meals
€40-55; noon-3pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat; Rialto-Mercato)
Watch the world drift down the
Grand Canal outside or canoodle indoors, but prepare to sit up and pay attention once the
