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sign outside says 'Supplì') serving up fresh pizza al taglio and various pasta and risotto
dishes. It's also worth sampling the supplì and roast chicken.
Bir & Fud
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(Via Benedetta 23; meals €25; 7.30pm-midnight, to 2am Fri & Sat; Piazza Trilussa) This orange-
and-terracotta, vaulted pizzeria wins plaudits for its organic take on pizzas, crostini and
fried things (potato, pumpkin etc). It also has a microbrewery on site, and serves seasonal
tipples such as Birrificio Troll Palanfrina (a winter-only beer made from chestnuts).
PIZZERIA
Brasserie 4:20
( 06 5831 0737; Via Portuense 82; meals around €20; 7pm-2am Sun-Wed, to 4am Thu-Sat;
Piazza di Porta Portese) Rome's passion for artisanal beer shows no sign of abating, and this
characterful brick-arched place, with kegs outside and a cool neon sign, not only has mul-
tiple rare draught beers but takes the concept one step further: many of its dishes are beer
based (how about some 'tiramistout'). There are also good burgers, if you're in a burger-
and-beer mood.
RISTORANTE
Da Augusto
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TRATTORIA
( 06 580 37 98; Piazza de' Renzi 15; meals €25; lunch & dinner; Viale di Trastevere, Viale
di Trastevere) For a Trastevere feast, plonk yourself at one of Augusto's rickety tables, either
inside or out on the small piazza, and prepare to enjoy some mamma-style cooking. The
gruff waiters dish out hearty platefuls of rigatoni all'amatriciana (pasta tubes with pan-
cetta, chilli and tomato sauce) and stracciatella (clear broth with egg and Parmesan)
among a host of Roman classics. Be prepared to queue. Cash only.
Pizzeria Ivo
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PIZZERIA
( 06 581 70 82; Via di San Francesco a Ripa 158; pizzas around €7; Wed-Mon; Viale di Tras-
tevere, Viale di Trastevere) One of Trastevere's most famous pizzerias, Ivo's has been
slinging pizzas for some 40 years, and still the hungry come. With the TV on in the corner
and the tables full (including a few outside on the cobbled street), it's a noisy, vibrant
place, and the waiters fit the gruff-and-fast stereotype.
BAKERY
Forno la Renella
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